Jekyll2024-03-24T19:43:20-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/feed/index.xmlJeff Henshaw’s Rides to RememberA journal of my favorite motorcycle adventures.Jeff HenshawSeptember Loop, Oregon Coast Style2023-09-18T00:00:00-07:002023-09-18T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/loopv2<p>September remains one of my favorite times of year to ride. It brings the crisp fall air and changing colors of leaves onto the scene, but it’s still usually warm enough for short sleeves. There is no better time of year to extend a weekend to four days and ride around the beautiful Pacific Northwest. That’s exactly what my riding buddy Greg and I did this year.</p>
<h2 id="day-1-seattle-wa-to-waldport-or---402-miles">Day 1: Seattle WA to Waldport OR - 402 miles</h2>
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<p>We met on Friday morning in Seattle for breakfast and to figure out which direction we’d ride. Like all my favorite rides, this one didn’t have a pre-planned route. Over coffee, we discussed wanting to get to Eastern Oregon eventually, but there were many routes that could eventually get there. We decided the weather was nice enough for a ride along the Pacific, so we left the <a href="https://www.pelotonseattle.com">Peloton Cafe</a> and headed for the coast.</p>
<p>It was a beautiful ride down!</p>
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<p>I misjudged the length of ride and made it worse by booking a hotel in Waldport, rather than Newport. Turns out Waldport is even further south. We decided to stop for dinner at <a href="https://thesalmonberry.fun">The Salmonberry</a> in Wheeler, Oregon. I suspect it’s good place normally, but that night the regular chefs were gone. The tacos were okay, but the service was horrible: we waited over an hour for our food. It was getting dark, and I don’t love riding in the dark.</p>
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<p>After crawling through the coastal towns, we made it into Waldport ready for cocktails and some hot appetizers at the hotel’s bar. Sadly, the bar was closed for renovation, but the very nice clerk grabbed us a couple of beers and mini muffins on the house, and we crashed. Sometimes any cold beer and carbs hit the spot and they were much appreciated.</p>
<h2 id="day-2-waldport-or-to-redmond-or---205-miles">Day 2: Waldport OR to Redmond OR - 205 miles</h2>
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<p>We started out in some chilly drizzle and had breakfast at the amazing <a href="https://hilltop-cafe-bistro.square.site">Hilltop Cafe-Bistro.</a> After a perfect breakfast, we broke east over State Route 34 toward Corvallis. But rather than stay on the route - which was beautiful to begin with - Greg decided to explore a road that his nav app was telling him looked good for motorcycling. That lead to a second road that we decided to take, and I’ll let the curves tell the rest of the story:</p>
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<p>When we rolled into Alsea, the small town at the end of the twisties, we were in awe at how amazing the roads were. Scenic, twisty, varying between one and two lanes. Absolutely perfect riding.</p>
<p>Continuing east, we found ourselves in Lebanon, Oregon for lunch at the <a href="https://growlercafe.com">Growler Cafe.</a> I had what might be the best sandwich I have ever eaten there, and it was bizarre: a Blackberry Bacon Grilled Cheese. It was a suggestion from the waitress. You should go to Lebanon just for the sandwich.</p>
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<p>Smoke was now in the air from a wildfire, and it got thicker until we pulled into Sisters, Oregon for coffee. In these photos you can really see why it was wise to take a break, hydrate, and plan to get away from the smoke or indoors soon.</p>
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<p>That evening’s stop turned out to be the kitschy SCP Hotel in Redmond, Oregon. Very nice little place with a great restaurant attached. Still smokey, but that was okay as we had a good meal inside and called it a day.</p>
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<h2 id="day-3-redmond-or-to-leavenworth-wa---297-miles">Day 3: Redmond OR to Leavenworth WA - 297 miles</h2>
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<p>We woke up to clear skies with almost no smoke and decided to ride north to Leavenworth for a fine German dinner. The route [mostly] goes up Highway 97, which is scenic unto itself. But the moto nav app has a twisty road setting, and we let it guide us off into some incredible country with pine trees, beautiful geography, and almost no other vehicles on the roads. Another bit of motorcycling heaven…</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YCncGIspkQM?si=BhAqAhSxuEUiSRo8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<p>This route also afforded us a run up Yakima Canyon Road, which is one of Washington’s legendary motorcycle routes. After that, Blewitt Pass took us into the Cascade Mountains. It felt like one great ride after another.</p>
<h2 id="day-4-leavenworth-to-seattle--san-juan-islands---155-miles">Day 4: Leavenworth to Seattle / San Juan Islands - 155 miles</h2>
<p>Short day just to get home to families. We were up early, and the mountain air was great to ride through. Climbing up the east side of Stevens Pass is always beautiful (though it got chilly, down to 44º). Greg headed back to Seattle, and I broke north to the islands.</p>
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<p>Much like the <a href="http://localhost:4000/september-loop-in-the-pacific-northwest/">September loop back in 2016,</a> this was a blast. Nearly every mile was scenic, and traffic was minimal. We explored some new roads, some of which we are destined to ride again. These September loops are worth making an annual tradition!</p>Jeff HenshawSeptember remains one of my favorite times of year to ride. It brings the crisp fall air and changing colors of leaves onto the scene, but it’s still usually warm enough for short sleeves. There is no better time of year to extend a weekend to four days and ride around the beautiful Pacific Northwest. That’s exactly what my riding buddy Greg and I did this year.Solo ride through Glacier National Park2023-08-09T00:00:00-07:002023-08-09T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/glaciernationalpark<p>After <a href="/supervolcano-from-the-saddle/">experiencing Yellowstone National Park</a> back in 2014, I’ve had a goal of getting to Glacier National Park in northern Montana. A <a href="/gsa-unbox/">brand new bike</a> this year gave me the perfect excuse to get a good ride in and see another national treasure. The totals looked like:</p>
<ul>
<li>Duration: August 3 - 9 2023 (7 days riding)</li>
<li>Total miles: 1,720</li>
<li>Bike: 2023 BMW R1250GS Adventure</li>
<li>Regions visited: 3 states (WA, ID, MT) plus British Columbia</li>
<li>Max altitude: 6,667’</li>
<li>Min/Max temperature: 57 ºF / 101 ºF</li>
</ul>
<p>The loop was clockwise.</p>
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<h2 id="day-1-seattle-to-winthrop-washington-191-miles">Day 1: Seattle to Winthrop, Washington (191 miles)</h2>
<p>For the ride out, I was joined by my dad and nephew. Having three generations of riders on a trip is rare and a lot of fun. We met up in Arlington and headed over Highway 20, part of the North Cascades Scenic Loop. Sadly, just shy of Diablo Lake, we hit forest fires being actively fought by helicopter water drops.</p>
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<p>We rode through a bit of smoke and had a sunny crossing of Washington Pass, eventually arriving in Winthrop. We stayed at the Winthrop Inn, which was nice enough, and had great pizza at <a href="https://east20pizza.com/menu/">East 20 Pizza,</a> which we highly recommend.</p>
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<h2 id="day-2-winthrop-to-rossland-british-columbia-246-miles">Day 2: Winthrop to Rossland, British Columbia (246 miles)</h2>
<p>We had a quick breakfast at the <a href="https://www.cinnamontwispbakery.com">Cinnamon Twisp Bakery,</a> and my dad and nephew headed back west as I proceeded east. This is where the plan ended, and open-ended riding started. It was hot, with temperatures in the uppper 90ºs. About two hours in, I stopped at one of the famous Smallwoods fruit stands. This one was a complete grocrey store and small café.</p>
<p>There was a peach orchard across the street, which set the stage for me ordering a fresh peach milkshake.</p>
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<p>Sitting on Smallwood’s terrace under a fan enjoying a farm-fresh peach milkshake is one of the highlights of the trip. After that, it was time to ride back into the heat and continue east. I followed the Columbia River and eventually wound up in Grand Coulee for lunch. <a href="https://pksculinary.com">PK’s</a> is a from-scratch restaurant that I’d go to again.</p>
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<p>It was still hot, so I decided I’d head north for the rest of the day, hoping higher elevations would cool thigns down a bit. The Twin Lakes area northeast of Colville was beautiful. I ventured into British Columbia and spent the night in Rossland, BC.</p>
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<h2 id="day-3-rossland-bc-to-kalispell-mt-252-miles">Day 3: Rossland, BC to Kalispell, MT (252 miles)</h2>
<p>Day 3 was about getting positioned to enter Glacier National Park on day 4. Glacier is one of the parks with restricted, timed entry and I had a pass (thanks to my wife) that would get me in the following day. Because of this, not many pictures as I burned miles to get near the park.</p>
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<p>Kalispell was unremarkable, other than to warn you away from the very noisy Travelodge there. Run-down, loud, and overpriced due to proximity to a National Park.</p>
<h2 id="day-4-glacier-national-park-kalispell-to-great-falls-mt-247-miles">Day 4: Glacier National Park! Kalispell to Great Falls, MT (247 miles)</h2>
<p>I was up early and greeted with rain! The skies were mixed and it was hard to tell how long it would persist, so I grabbed breakfast in hopes of it letting up. It did let up and the day turned out to be perfect riding weather. Broken clouds, the kind that emphasize distance, were ideal for this park.</p>
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<p>There’s a cute little village just after the formal park entrance which began an unexpected journey. I was there to do the “Going to the Sun” route, where you ride across the park through the most scenic areas. The first leg of that route is along Lake McDonald, arriving at the historic Lake McDonald Lodge.</p>
<p>Unfortunatley, the highway along this first stretch had been removed in preparation for re-paving. So the surface was dirt, gravel, rocks, and frequently slick mud as watering trucks went through. Nothing the bike and I couldn’t handle, but bicycles were prohibited.</p>
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<p>Asphalt appeared again after the lodge, and I ascended into the somewhat spooky peaks that glaciers have carved over the millennia. It was a mix of rivers, waterfalls, huge vertical drops, and hairpin turns. The best way to get a sense for this was with some 360º footage that I captured. Here’s a bit that I experimented with:</p>
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<p>Here are some of the park’s highlights:</p>
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<h2 id="day-5-great-falls-to-hot-springs-mt-250-miles">Day 5: Great Falls to Hot Springs, MT (250 miles)</h2>
<p>I needed to make a decision: venture south into Yellowstone, which I had done before, or explore something more unknown. A buddy suggested riding to Hot Springs, Montana and enjoying the natural hot pools there. I decided to embrace the unknown and do that. This would also start my journey back west, so the timing was quite good.</p>
<p>As always, the unknown brings pleasant surprises. This was the beginning of two days of the best motorcycling of the entire trip. It was pretty desolate, with few other vehicles, which is safest for riders. The first half of the day was also scenic, through farmlands and beautiful historic sites.</p>
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<p>Lunch was at <a href="https://trixisovando.com">Trixi’s,</a> in the middle of nowhere. Great service and unexpectedly good food. I really appreciated running across this place.</p>
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<p>After boucing off of Missoula, I entered the Flathead Indian Reservation in western Montana, and slowly rode out of the modern world. Arriving in Hot Springs, I proceeded to the <a href="http://www.symeshotsprings.com">Symes Hot Springs Hotel & Mineral Baths.</a> They have 4 pools fed by natural hot springs, getting progressively cooler as the water flows downhill.</p>
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<p>The pools were nice. The rooms showed nearly 100 years of use. Creeky floors, wobbly furniture, and some narrow passages that could only meet 1930s fire codes.</p>
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<h2 id="day-6-hot-springs-to-wenatchee-wa-352-miles">Day 6: Hot Springs to Wenatchee, WA (352 miles)</h2>
<p>This was by far the best day of riding of the trip. It began with open fields of Montana farmlands, and evolved into roads winding along rivers as I climed into the hills. Very little vehicle traffic. Because of this, I just kept riding, and thus only got a few pictures. Breakfast in Montana, lunch in Idaho, and dinner in Washington.</p>
<p><img src="https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resid=83BE8A21FD106805%211290692&authkey=%21AP_UxaNJKAMRM4c&height=1024#whole" alt="GlacierNP" />
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<img src="https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resid=83BE8A21FD106805%211290693&authkey=%21ADVYkZsMkeDiqtA&width=1024#whole" alt="GlacierNP" /></p>
<h2 id="day-7-wenatchee-to-anacortes-wa-182-miles">Day 7: Wenatchee to Anacortes, WA (182 miles)</h2>
<p>I went from the best riding day, to the worst! While I woke up to only light drizzle, by the time I got over Stevens Pass it was cold and raining hard. Even with gear on, it was still wet. Road construction cause long back-ups in standstill traffic, all under pouring rain.</p>
<p>Big thanks to my folks for a cup of homemade chicken noodle soup and a place to dry out. After the rain let up, I rode the last leg under much warmer skies and caught the ferry home.</p>
<p><img src="https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resid=83BE8A21FD106805%211290695&authkey=%21ACA291FkKKdkaQs&width=1024#whole" alt="GlacierNP" />
<img src="https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resid=83BE8A21FD106805%211290694&authkey=%21AFx9Exiq7FKUaBs&width=1024#whole" alt="GlacierNP" /></p>Jeff HenshawAfter experiencing Yellowstone National Park back in 2014, I’ve had a goal of getting to Glacier National Park in northern Montana. A brand new bike this year gave me the perfect excuse to get a good ride in and see another national treasure. The totals looked like:Active Fires and Reactive Bear2022-10-18T00:00:00-07:002022-10-18T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/firesbears<p>Getting out for extended rides has been an important part of my life over the years, but recently the bike has been garaged while I’ve dealt with a lot of change. We moved homes, <a href="/msft">I retired from Microsoft,</a> and of course COVID has had an impact on all of our activites. It felt great to break the caged streak with an end-of-season North Cascades loop with my buddy Greg. Since the Mariners didn’t have a game four, we started out on Sunday afternoon, the 16th, without much of a plan other than a night up in Twisp, WA. Here’s how the route unfolded:</p>
<iframe src="https://a.rever.co/embed/rides/8432142" width="800" height="500"></iframe>
<p>Heading east over Highway 2 we encountered active forest fires. Signs warned the the pass was closed, but a quick check of <a href="https://twitter.com/wsdot_traffic/status/1581753377528381441">@WSDOT</a> updated the status to open again, as fire crews had finished their work for the day. We weren’t really prepared for what we were about to ride through, though: Active fires still burning along the roadside, scorched trees and brush, and trees felled across shoulder barriers as the crews worked to prevent spread. It was like driving through a post-apocolyptic movie scene.</p>
<p>At Stevens Pass, everything cleared up as we descended toward Leavenworth. Leavenworth is the trying-hard-to-be-German town in “Washington’s Alps” (the Cascades), and we arrived there just in time for some afternoon sun on fall colors, and a very good German meal at <a href="https://www.andreaskellerrestaurant.com/">Andreas Keller Restaurant</a>. That’s my bratwurst with German potato salad, rott kraut, and an apfel strudel.</p>
<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4mSe5EWC-dbdj0VUmV6q4UcRQQ9ET-4dU_ea2L0wyoDTWftgyUL_thjhg0c5RizTI2rve8w7X3MnON_VIpXsh7Ts-C9CHYJwbc0r7zzoTRGnMDnxpiuJxJIofZ-l8O_7nCBB7EoKI_Y7MXQbvVPv-R_UFo6KyrAt4mVF9oMHjBkgw1dOl8ua1MQpI_nX2WSobo?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Leavnworth" /></p>
<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4m9SfpekcIPvYJgH6Qip4iaPaEYk8y3a-5rXXWN7seoBtFNfTOml71mYtGp5pk7X8xlxlnOyI_W3UtO6JDxV1O2pUWXEGc1K3CfY9ogqSfxJ8aZ03OCPkuqTtGoclIk1yV_2gR-8-47eBLOIgTqfgz81O961NXYnRRMmLRglOk7wi3zOPUfBi5JupU2fYeZSTl?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#half" alt="Leavnworth" />
<img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4mI0Kk9DcNcVDCg5nteEy6MzdaG86JgoKxCbBlAL-x8EBpqE0wjmUPuNI_-IVpoO9LedVrQmvqPU_K4ITuI5C9KEcj4uTSAKfsV6buT5dPQig86bgd3S3S4bEn_8LGaYKpcTr30jyMYSE_ydnCZHLOtw4exC1ocJLSmVRHzu02BA_AUJaxPv3qbOw4TyuZMUaQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#half" alt="Leavnworth" /></p>
<p>We continued on to Wenatchee, where we found a hotel right on the Columbia. Drinks in the lobby capped off a great afternoon of riding. We’d left temperatures close to 90º in Seattle, and enjoyed low 70ºs east of the mountains.</p>
<p>Based upon multiple strong recommendations from locals, we went to breakfast on Monday morning at a place called <a href="http://wildhuck.com/wenatchee/">The Wild Huckleberry</a> in Wenatchee. Everyone raved about their huckleberry pancakes being delicions and “the size of old-fashioned flapjacks.” They weren’t kidding.</p>
<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4m9DXFijUdap2wvpCF4m1QLlnRHOh25nEiH0P_9uyyCIkqbsypoOnZ-ZXyjrRQGewBolJPjJi8wSnGqrHxjzVX0CdxDAOZyY4C7m2IAe-3bg4sZLWL7e4a34XTJLyBPAPouCNUuQLv_dyrePPFr1CvLY9LWe9iDeFjDGbh_Lvs_4tKgecSaXTdH2LqSwl6r6wF?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Wenatchee" /></p>
<p>The slow morning start worked out well because it gave the mercury a chance to rise a bit before we hit the road. We rode up Highways 2 and 97 into Omak for lunch, and then east to Omak Lake. I had ridden through here years earlier and remembered the two-lane road that runs along the lake as being an ideal motorcycle road: twisty, good asphalt, and no traffic. It was every bit as nice to ride as I remembered, until we were suddenly stopped by a big black bear meandering around in the road!</p>
<p>We stopped a good distance shy of him, but he still saw us and decided to see what we were about (or perhaps whether we’d make a good lunch).</p>
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<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4mFptzbZvP2CG0vFqHuvRuOeZovpE9R4zv-ldTU9HO4a0fDAfYt7A8cTn3ALDyDw58TLcQXnvE-_x6br1X3ZatAGMdkt7SpRY6153V38bJ3vK0u1EEt9DvErMCTlsv_4nCIxi1u8ywgnKNK4rB8j69vx4V3uqz8MsifwDUrj8GAaY056Z2pah_PblPXMy1g-WR?width=735&height=583&cropmode=none#half" alt="Omak" />
<img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4mMgj7ssreilMXvk7xhvW4MGXYa-NjbylQYAtYQur55n_x8_F0c2GJ5AiA3HSsE5PnVBSoXUXIhuO7QT4QsVa5iuVoqXsWCq2Z_ZF5yLmTA74xsZmodhwMW--GYiX0vnrj8phbNHTltUpCjO1uEegj6DXES9A4Sx-FFruihjOe4DRwcua3AM35Ap5rPsNROY4Q?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#half" alt="Omak" /></p>
<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4m5lraePfMchLSYaRbeHHrPmyRJrIgQ_MpFhDRQlCY5BuIND0rD26T7TF0mmBO8R0-dfVlugrMWz5sohIuqlqm6QU07-pKOrLPPQbCNPhMFp8LJP6iK57WW8IgJP9jc8kzO9uJPDAhZqFRk9nR6zEKS_UKHTgVEn21FBjEOmE16Hrgv8AqjWNqot1_TwPjFQvP?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Omak" /></p>
<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4mGzybNjFREzIqEjEsvkxlYmn67XpHFucBDpyQq4S1fkrDZAn4NrVzhCzUZ_AScMD7OfIWzcWN-pUHua54S1_9nHG5cO8YZdom_Vmaz5r0PWD2RNB-JBNyiHVK1A9mXIGXqV2NwByTgehaMp16UV4OKpQ_5pHwnmqLff-jLdMwrIyhfCsitHqB5WKvDz5GFlL4?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#half" alt="Omak" />
<img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4mXbKjrVQ0VL7O6YNLYP6bF5Vz7BcAc_Ont5ms6OnO8Xos-2qqA0exEWXjngFqrnTYe-4XYATui1wRct2yliIy-SJVz9sZXkK4pzNnpNlHmRZLvJaYR1j-KXEKI8Arx76AY4iiEGZLlg-xOY8fI-Nl7O-5l9cdhjZYHSOSKfnnKXvJb85hV6X-Nnd3B5yIlXU4?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#half" alt="Omak" /></p>
<p>As we rode past him, we could see him standing on his hind legs to see us. The bear was good motivation to head back west to Twisp, where we had rooms at the <a href="http://www.twispriversuites.com">Twisp River Suites.</a> This place was perfect, with nice suites, friendly staff, and a cool patio with fires to sit by right on the river. It was a great place to chill after a great day of riding.</p>
<p>My favorite coffee in the world is from Twisp, coincidentally. <a href="http://bluestarcoffeeroasters.com">Blue Star Coffee Roasters</a> opened a new shop in May of 2021, and we used this chance to have breakfast there.</p>
<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4miKHGtDG9M3HyuEaCAAw5xrLt82KyHfpIIHqEYxIHp9k4KHujIhaWPAjFNn-T-lWNnPX8UQYgSjGVZDkIR58moCerMMhTms8ZbUu3ZiIHD4aiqJ0u2PKEw71S6LZIEczMQR71eI6lH-vR6VPr36BRDCVir8mK0iwKEhlOCw03iBKvEV4icwCYjCTa9FgpcO1k?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Bluestar" /></p>
<p><img src="https://phx02pap001files.storage.live.com/y4m2bPVPbroqgMpPRJD-GdasWy9YVjPu7F9wgM-bnnFmjsZWFgTmi1wSLYWsRyH0WywuDA79twJoE7rw5vMAgnhibM9z8000IwfenDzih7-0WJ2Hdn66A0AX0zlwnHxjC3d3LSLJXS3g1b_ow1PoCznP2t6E_LBNEml9P2diZUvdGnJDBVe2dkTcrt0ZUZd_1fD?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Bluestar" /></p>
<p>Riding west early in the morning was cold. At one point, the bike registered 33º in a shady valley. As we climbed, sunny slopes would be warmer - into the mid 40s - but as soon as we dropped into the next valley, the chill would hit again. This makes for tough riding as you tend to stiffen up and burn energy when cold. Good gear helps, but riding in the 30s is just cold and exhausting.</p>
<p>Once we got over the summit, we hit the worst smoke that I have ever seen. Lori said that she saw AQIs of over 300 where we were riding. Smoke from wildfires was so thick that we rode with our hazard lights flashing for a while for added visibility. It was hard to see more than ten yards in front of the bike. Overall, an exhausting ride back to home, but we did it safely.</p>
<p>The weather forecast calls for the Pineapple Express to arrive here from Hawaii on Friday, and with it comes the “atmospheric river” and days, perhaps weeks, of continuous rain. Greg and I made perfect use of these last few sunny days, which is amazing for mid-October in our area.</p>Jeff HenshawGetting out for extended rides has been an important part of my life over the years, but recently the bike has been garaged while I’ve dealt with a lot of change. We moved homes, I retired from Microsoft, and of course COVID has had an impact on all of our activites. It felt great to break the caged streak with an end-of-season North Cascades loop with my buddy Greg. Since the Mariners didn’t have a game four, we started out on Sunday afternoon, the 16th, without much of a plan other than a night up in Twisp, WA. Here’s how the route unfolded:Safe riding during COVID-19 and West Coast Wildfires2020-09-11T00:00:00-07:002020-09-11T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/wildfires<p>Getting out for a ride during a global pandemic like COVID-19 is hard enough unto itself. <a href="https://twitter.com/gfriedman">Greg</a>, <a href="https://twitter.com/duffergeek">Chris</a>, and I added to the challenge by planning a ride as wildfires were breaking out along the west coast.</p>
<p>We played it smart by keeping multiple options open, which proved vital as roads closed suddenly due to fire and smoke.</p>
<p>We adjusted routes on the fly, and wound up with slog down I-5 to get to our <a href="https://www.lodge902.com">amazing AirBnB</a> in Hood River, Oregon. Along the way, we wore our masks at every single stop. These masks have replaceable N95 filter inserts. We also kept hand sanitizer on the ready at all times, and used it often – including after gassing up.</p>
<p>Over the course of two days, we ate every single meal outdoors. No inside dining at all. Our AirBnB had individual suites that featured private bathrooms for extra safety.</p>
<p>On the second day, we spent our time safely in the saddle, enjoying an incredible route back home through Eastern Washington. The roads included HWY 142 (Klickitat), the Bickleton Highway, and HWY 821 (Yakima Canyon Road). <a href="https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=242e35f580ef828090">Our complete route is here.</a></p>
<p>This video takes you along for highlights of the ride, and into the fire-scorched hills that were still smoldering.</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WMsxhP-6XVw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>Jeff HenshawGetting out for a ride during a global pandemic like COVID-19 is hard enough unto itself. Greg, Chris, and I added to the challenge by planning a ride as wildfires were breaking out along the west coast.Spain, Andorra, & Portugal2019-10-11T00:00:00-07:002019-10-11T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/spain<p>Back in 2016, my good friend Walter and I <a href="/europe-ride-2016/">rode around Central Europe</a> on motorcycles, exploring both the cities and the beautiful countryside of Italy, France, Germany, Czech Republic, and more. That ride was so fun that we promised we’d do a similar ride again. This year we did exactly that.</p>
<p>Like that last ride, our 2019 ride was totally unplanned. Part of the thrill of exploring new places is not knowing what each day will bring or where you’ll find yourself, not even which country. We had bikes rented, a couple of weeks clear on our calendars, and no other plans.</p>
<p><img src="https://ela9ia.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mpHupdw9yAY8q5uzb-_DiRk5-kQNHCL243KdTVgBI63ACNZQv19LcqMphRYE1jS9X6SX9j0td0TqD-hPan1Ccuybfpd863jJxVOo4B8i7V0WRPQvC_2o3KPUS-UhVYYvAGxT51DZTF8ilTDmt9q9V7qE_PVH8C5CMCF2RpUaT9SpNTc8xTchtHxPJUrYP-jqMRGjbeLl2MVfk_GPglo75DA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Belchite" /><br /><em>The bikes near the ruins of a cathedral on an unknown farm near Belchite, Spain.</em></p>
<p>Our 2019 Iberian Peninsula ride featured:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dates: Riding September 27 – October 9 (plus a day or two of travel on either side)</li>
<li>Bikes: 2019 BMW R1250GS (Jeff) / 2019 BMW R1250RT (Walter)</li>
<li>Rentals: from <a href="https://www.imtbike.com/">IMTBike</a></li>
<li>Distance: 4024 km / 2500 miles</li>
<li>Countries: Spain, Andorra, Portugal</li>
<li>All photos and video shot on an iPhone 11 Pro</li>
</ul>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1mooPoA4neQpirtXgbCJ5hBJoLxWbrOHI" width="720" height="540"></iframe>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-0-arrival-in-barcelona--2-kilometers">Day 0: Arrival in Barcelona — 2 kilometers</h2>
<p>We arrived in Barcelona where we’d spend the first tonight getting over jet lag sufficiently for safe riding. The bikes were reserved at <a href="https://www.imtbike.com/">IMTBike</a>, a Spanish rental and tour agency. They were fantastic in every regard. Our rentals were for Saturday but they gave us the option of a free Friday pickup, which we did.</p>
<p><img src="https://elzyqq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mEPWXGETvUEaID4pwPwnJkuCtMOQYW3hR9_vkcMgo4usEkEmdxOQkphrJCOC_hSAG5GWtT3NqbEzpEL18p1xqr5ID1StOsqOQA5gvjy6aZCrInsnDL2tghFu1WnwKvpGSNMV6ZyGN_QDPmTVlTyy1UM1mQI7zfk0sHAUUbZ2sEDyh_z7SxrJBA96WnAchOdmnvzLinYFWECqCzxLEimScHw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Bick Pickup" />
<img src="https://elahnw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mwghMlAMBkr6shjoCyO-O3_RKws4ElB3u3AvehTsGrWnmGPaEcDwGQhGOTH-geXpcx8r7fX8XQWYXQXZueBVFIZ411hwcVmNX1ZoQkNr6LBS_IbrG0vXC7nDfYJ7wy6vJmJESozRAYownOMovnLbtK1560x_UTv-5klsbNQd1oLSzz4lPN0VpmwVIiMPbkxRNq54bj3hmWT4ABl_TXNHP6g?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Bike Pickup" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-1-barcelona-to-andorra--380-kilometers">Day 1: Barcelona to Andorra — 380 kilometers</h2>
<p>We rode north and had lunch on the Mediterranean en route to Girona, a medieval walled city with a beautiful cathedral, steps, and streets that are familiar to Game of Thrones fans. Girona was also GoT’s Bravos and some of King’s Landing.</p>
<p><img src="https://elzfra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mHpEiNYCwQFhbED1_X0cGBYgtJB1NL_3NjnIWIGW__zkNfUCRVzZP_zGqQeG9ygDutPfAa5jI_5rp-q-lW_rlnZqGGoX6FbD3OmzHQ7zMqAfpaBMqS5287r3zwxLlP3_K3_BSwvdz__h61GAiuF4pGHgPU55bqJbujHgmbujawgu-WOc114ufpSD2g3DXsKUJh4SlNtTT7EsQHF27ihiJzg?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Girona" />
<img src="https://elb6ua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4ms8b9RD-1HGVxCHb5M18mK9ukDAdpU45u33e2NOCy9HoS-tT0kY4aqPIToIHPK7s3uJjVpM1xyI4bFhzHoIdeq8brs3utv_gSQ5Nr989SV5gcM17px_6oNEdiRSFUpXa_oE0NxeVgIUkiEGa-7O1HE6BKSL1lwxhKULT3jNoAf0ijTMclQv94SQNPLQpU6EGiwWY2rzj94oYqXNfsAQ85UA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Girona" />
<img src="https://elbezw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mgg5TUMoq1KkGBTLpeRKgnBFW3phNfcy6ovdMRTn53B8-1I2_-7JNZy69ncUvpwF3QUWte2pq1tIHWjqioTgsEO8xz68shlI8LsKpfv1k6XXYXn4xha0PmqL0zOOY0bnZ6_xsSoZ-zYCBdUHncRE1hSiRooUKIUn0DKUrlIj7iphQcF0KQ7SuPgit5Y0a64a7otwvbSLHB3HitOtSCqshTA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Girona" />
<img src="https://elao5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m36YQBC0J7_63wHeLWg1tWbWm5kwF2LRRiV1RtmupmPA_dD4elysFDvbvvOxX4t4fkWpSrlGtmz_GtwDlfRVCIl71WIK9naPLTu3ltCuuWGovUaz-kWdnq4DtwwpAIAzSAkL6_4j5AhplrqV0RSksClQBq8NxDSms-ugKvN4LdYTWbi7xsl9IkTQZZwreJ80K16NK4MYuaeKyVUyDTLSmlg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Girona" />
<img src="https://elbzcq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4me4NLGgc47Mcz_WCx_EzO2ZdKMNLs70Vxvbj2OZw8wKS0YXsbCbzSxupN_pQ35Fi-2eLo3JT4f6YGE-n92WRgT4MN8DO9JdCLHSVYWQYlGrS_MAuQw3Qb8835u6vt0DCVcGkKKHMxthdtgzhNQaeQzBZJELFBtZtwLGMgIWg6tk92X1UuTLW5-IW_HZPD_V88WhmxuG_fALhhR7vvjbv3DQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Girona" />
<img src="https://elypww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m11HjATLj1twTqdUrrjCiTbGPlhXB9BHLWyKdljulKI8JcQ49BJRWYT9_XFLyLuOdqzKWtZBc9tVdSdoHN9Ij9zz4IzXqSiK7GArsED3E6TZpoOoadz2XDbythPMHbVp0skTAKKfadRLNuXJ46a4WTwJPg0Zl3GDbm2Bg89kI4beL0JACNMCQwnzVMrbvQfeeJt2wrFLwc5i6Nfg_SvNphw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Girona" /></p>
<p>We headed up into the Pyrenees Mountains in mid-afternoon for a beautiful ride into Andorra, a postage stamp country on the Spanish-French border. Over gelato in Girona, Andorra was picked as the target because we had never been there, and a new country always adds to the sense of adventure.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcouqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m4cOyUEamSnH6_A8tYkhk06cwFaz2Rdqf7a-6nY24tpU2MxPTAR9WWbcFH_SH4ROIs1qFLPjlRkqWt3RZG-CxuOckicHoMnPfRwSav4BOXWiiutp6nyGGvBgnSDXEwMWOeGgBnVUkJjkV1cQ9a20YX7BJ79m6vhr53v0R2XGvZc-IOFXOm9-9S_XYI0EiqoA0tlgN-SgfaPDb7CJNP6n8aQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Sunset" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-2-andorra-to-lleida--308-kilometers">Day 2: Andorra to Lleida — 308 kilometers</h2>
<p>Spent the morning enjoying Andorra’s central city, which is relatively small and very ski-season tourist focused. It’s a great place to wake up to.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcrqnw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mP5xBEpiii7ETtkxQ0Z4mN74sZ3hi9M7hlm5TQlPLX2OX-5DsJth6wB00yz_ZCBv7dhq1FVTknQXiIQL0i_9TcrFUkYc7xjmXGTJKAAIsDM4YQRkwYr8oDFAaz1bHVFGJWzCnIzKxdldVfrcq-lEupCq1LUf4H2Ft4ilr0raj11eMAwafZo2peH4WjIBm1fi1g-VzpXSw_JtF3Y6KNDmF3Q?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Andorra" />
<img src="https://rcrjtg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m7s_amatUHiWMX_LT4yN__t8WmGz6qaslu8K2Cxj3J5TUi0ZCi6wv3jMEGLvlayA8NoE9SIUYZvE6iiKk3vfaqv1QZOA-2X5UmB15taOJfqWAXmanDKIZ_SycUp36dA_xBgzFansUsB-h1g8NUzv6_HjzW_QRmsP-PGWZ0x9lZtNLvc-4v7D267WMV2k8_Rguwbby1W4tXzxGcZjEKGPgmQ?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Andorra" />
<img src="https://rcpkkw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mDjUPWz4sxBRwPBV9jPA7bC35o64G0OVxGeds0rVfaXo8BsBrvnC9U63eOH9PXzRKZITaPGUTGqqaElrqoshn3ri-RKho2QP3guQbBdGMpMmM334Yk2nCEHRaanqDo4rD5wqnv7P6gTaxPArc475T7dWjfbRkfpHNYFQCpNPoJvMDNdp4f-5wZF9rmTYNldbMqHRkyW5dfugIucr1DtMI8A?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Andorra" /></p>
<p>We decided to ride up to the ski resorts above town to see what the views of the mountain range looked like; what a great idea that turned out to be. On the way up, we encountered travelers filling bottles with water from an artesian spring. The water was fantastic, as was the view.</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/o6jNFhZyPYM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>We rode up past the gondolas, to the end of the asphalt, continued along a service rode, and found ourselves looking at herds of wild-roaming horses. In the first photo, you can see a herd on the top of the bluff. We rode up and loved getting to meet these beauties.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcrqqq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mJonPmZvUP_RJrR6o0Xr6r8xkydCUa312r-hR0ZWMgfNJWK4JbJnYko56xR2qkB6vac6D80GSxKsJzpSykXtmGHcBdzy2cEMp8CxOjyW25hDtOXvS0ih4jdYbSvrdI6bP2LbxnUtUskfLi3C2NYawFvCqrrRZ449SlGLCqlab540SB1vh1XXYJFjN7hYNPBFGlFR2G2zAZCwVlFcjUPUymg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Andorra" />
<img src="https://rco1iq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mGw2FQWclWNORCH-W7Y5nZG-aUOdYjiRdGMvR2NBN8e_Sm0_5FHsR6ED5rF0xEeUv6pA7b_inkNnP9QDTE_lKzhNUc-bjRZmb1OVWJz00s1I2Wz7nm5WF3otz52n-pt-BX7jDXF0RP9EJoMMWynFQi0nLXGmMsMrJnUNL2O6tpOii9NvOmJAVPHK0MdNpiXvxuHlfaKlnpHJ6kUKrlhl2qg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Andorra" />
<img src="https://rcprcg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mDXjbDom7bka6ii1ifTdB529LcKGFsQN9XLFTbb9qWBa4yXcxz468VGzS9v9Y1zabxcOX3EKD8llQmswseE1sLW1Z2a3Wrh5BGDcT4B2dJuyXExtOu1xz9iERYAs3PUGQ-kMJ4GLZOiTLa_VWVYeUyIaArTWEd2rMUyD-1Voqk6r65L4NyFt-V-eXIbCEPqJEu4TgfSJK2RFCdP2VIrpDgA?width=1024&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Andorra" />
<img src="https://rcqafa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4merb1B4ky0EHjM0tasai9WkyhuFxjl3kQHlLioLIAmoK7t4Fc3YhO85fQ6kzgySmbj-ch8M_Awu_AAPDE-PxU38F9FU5xXSga4Dj1JVppCmnkXcoiKu7Dg-uNsRJjbck3IbYiv20UETKFhgoBdPRlfqzdP76y4wI92aJlTbVnnE8MK6lMsTTSvmBt3Nnum5i7pu5RI9jY_YcNwr7q6sEjSA?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Andorra" /></p>
<p>Riding down from the mountaintops was nonstop curves and made for a great afternoon. A highlight was discovering Baix Pallars, a town forgotten by time.</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/l19rgaAoIYk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>We arrived into Lleida, Spain to rooms in a hotel that was part of the train station.</p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-3-lleida-to-soria--370-kilometers">Day 3: Lleida to Soria — 370 kilometers</h2>
<p>While Lleida wasn’t the most interesting city that we visited, it did have an impressive castle — Castell del al Suda — at its heart. We walked into town to see it, stopping in the Església de Sant Joan, a beautiful cathedral, along the way.</p>
<p><img src="https://orhnqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mxIyiQ3soMHqZmN2N0UDFwh7fTViMK1W1RMIdvmSK6ym7c3BZpmmptDlj6NbsPlX3rKOi7x3EvYMxzsQYSNK9kfyEZTYjP33w1f40L-DGkWHYC1acyydvFb85leyO7YgPubSes8_j9AaPgn5EZkLuJRzas7qDP107ZQpDyujQA5rKdLuIirXR6i-4BsX_SDhp0QwEoUcuqm4btZwB_2QS5w?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lleida" />
<img src="https://rcqhww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mF7fGveIOV5RYI2bqel6bSWsHsYtHzt--ybkG62xgShOD2mgoeObmqTQDJgFLgifTiRIRv1RIRESEusG4XSNwGv8h-JJZg9R2wUzyg5hJhsMIJOloDFqU-5nxSr9AxGBiEZWqqYAQrDRYSQsye9OnEWODlTm8EpFRI5S5mvhOvOuUmeEl9ZdykX-s6jUIEIwPmJue-hIjBY7d7hjZCFGVMg?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lleida" />
<img src="https://orfmig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mDqZvB8G1zumFTYWG5qg4isREbUJpT4cuanUGF319tIMfXf_6-fZbz9jCjvc-Pcvsyg_JPqxmo-t23IVI7ookcD7dVO-fgTvrMsOQBchJIJeFMnDLMnn6kAtueiW21kKeWYLkuuP41UfNpN51v-U_A7qzHH7--l6aNycpkVqFVwBj6TWsbnJqMAC4tbAt4VlInMmT1SlvmK2IklWtWHTJcw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lleida" /></p>
<p>The castle is on a hill above Saint Joan’s, which we hiked up. It was a pretty spectacular view, and the usual layers history dating back to circa 1203, with some very ancient ruins from centuries earlier.</p>
<p><img src="https://org4xa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mBjwd-4zJFt6ZUeQeGjgr9Kunp6W10hkgajxXMIqT6wSPejUoTapKm48UPXf8ZPfKIGRHN0_nnPXZdRR7VJVM0NbIJKEwdgymASlD1ZxG62LoeO2zZf-ZvNfgdWy64gPmWJ9hE-dE7IcuDHzRVqOXKs3J7zjIhYTWKEeRqIvdiLUCFL5P0YfvhLXEbTinLzs20T-HNKnDzxuhIAtmJUnk-w?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lleida" />
<img src="https://orgccw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mdTnlCiVRvbVTZK4QgwJbZ8Q9xJNX4pR0CJu5fe3iDuJhlGNaMMLPCgn1xdn9kANgZqiMRwSbHhpuTz4zbcQ0Y_fIKQGGLNLsSdGRQTEwQGI3D5n7YvlEhgFBCqbiEFLkKHz9ZatBCfEWLOwXJCbU-NLJjhZOA8eH9MtDAyA3sFja9UWuTsLmLTy5PGE9Gt0JS55cRvKOaWoKxiFzApnJnQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lleida" />
<img src="https://orhurq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mvXxpputpUB3e2ad6pcbgtxJcTTgXI91MZPviJsoFocK5fIKwXqbAm9t0PUK-A498k1yTAdHqJ0qq-ppzGpmIIZEoH2O1qXAvdSS7RcUrtWBCp3u9_P3OJyf1n8hyQh3uH_xXBxPh5Q3FxKWnyvXRm16hSQn9PbYiq6LxJ3Kl4GyP1z9w2P6Kr04YR_Uozfu2yXO2Ax9uwMOomLjQQhhhqw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lleida" />
<img src="https://orft0q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mqIxjsg_wv0Bucv7QTCvcrp7b8CnaXkcY2AaNlp3rLMrv2B_Cy4bQ1NlQrdxDN07LSRNoVpvhVzJkSAwhHm-uPVlidRb0Qvx6w4Tc_6Wa6SdKS-fJ-Dmn5_Slp0XoNXkLrc8ZNContXUIeP02MOhNcL-_Xcn1PyRMxx1g98wyVY6E6vRmGdmFUJ9L50PBeIX_c81WFIYjUSFr74tw-hNdGw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lleida" />
<img src="https://ored6a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4moSVoIDfbboBGdy5UFVGpnSgZ9CCg9ikfCIhtWJzNAHPmeXBUEFcwHod2M_Wmjjq6FWKg08fqyrcub2oKvCyt1M7txOy48GArmB1lJ8n28b3q6b6h1lu5NT7Hwa-_VPJYDshDS7cSs0NY-zQaqq5cPQXNFzIChlhIcpF6rVamRSB3ZcbzF8fIIv8EMIbTAoZLminS8JnCuzHyTw2T-jxPmA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lleida" />
<img src="https://orgjug.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m6BT6GxhJ6AA5JLqPdIpcmonB6AzSucYT-2vO_hmpOvVMVgF8fcn5UdUrhp5W65W26COz6MnZXEHAZK-d9bk4x_LDDiKRgYANRsCUsdjOdUWoPZpcIa2F8xPKOt2jzSo0QIDDFCXzfK_F1FA9Xw5vFEQbo3aAe2pgEJZl0BOAS1Z0K1FL1Z6eaDAY3uXRt27PYwZ_MEpr6ea0Vu5zeBQU-Q?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lleida" /></p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QbvJx4mH4yg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>A noon departure didn’t prevent us from taking in lots of twisty, country farm roads as we wound our way toward Soria. One of the farms featured the ruins, likely war-damaged, of a cathedral (see the photo at the top of this post). Later, I was enthralled at how smart the herding dogs are as they kept the goats together across fields.</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ft2zKhnBQGA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>Soria was one of the most beautiful towns that we stumbled upon, and was a great place to spend a night.</p>
<p><img src="https://1suqfg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4myhysZNdPy2Qvz3dt--E_ICI6MGc6NyxAjYudR1Gsl4AHRiCUllhmiqfYV1sQHTwWVUYQyKRKuHwcssXq8UzMB-KeqZLWlM1ifxm9kPqCbYJKBKqDKHSzfh0d_tloB2zete4PZ_dOyyRl9rFzL18lajaJAX1tOsstpsoq2X58TvDpPEVxlt0INMxRdkXHiOpZaRA0ABerrBaeh6ETLNJqyA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Soria" />
<img src="https://1swpoq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mAf5Y6HVcIZLd0_5OYcZulXx-NtBWnGaSW1DhFT9OJCXDavKXxcyhT3Sf_SsNdzZ4W3Z4UJaqfM5rKo88T1QTNgH_K6VEMjDWWtC0Kj2W60qxqL7aNynd1sb-wHu06XX6ILJe5gvdi3WpDyuUCnM9C_crC0Okvyv7t8-iqTD_cs1CxGCgJv-fnA42qbxYSu_UO7HU8x_4tqyz2bx5ZeGFAg?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Soria" />
<img src="https://orgqow.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mH7scUF0o0OvEATdG-0TccFIiXimbdOY5iYiP4vRT-RNGOysYvdkZ9P_bjcg5BntHEz6ob0IDusm-ONb4C_T9mxgAF0jG6Y0qAqOt_Rx31rXg-PBecJyrHggCCWn73A7cHbPG0XQ9vhr5bRJxCMPF6wBk29pkUL87VIuKG_7C6-visvukj1lHWj-8FzIvU_l_4bkQt0IkjSKTja4m-n9mVA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="Soria" />
<img src="https://1sx0la.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m9i2q5yFMR1HvRse1LVutKIQIxkW2IYR2rA5iDRfTANsQbvnLLKluDDvVjGJGV9f4ff8DaJyHdcM2mj6VVoeGGflXvStndL5pIj1wwl7JPO9qwvvsiW7PPcqS-4j61G3F6gxp0jWma-EVpgMe3cBtOlPnLg5MqStWZkavDPvYRajLFvHo778DuNx31aC8yQcf05pGBl_reiD0A4k4W-fGmw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Soria" />
<img src="https://oreklw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mbxPU0575np-ve_9SWaA04eVbYmGNFey5W3SFKwFBvJWyKKqioDJsBqi9fNYKOF0UEmvkYMShbFb8QxNEROrCJ6Ci6CLN-4Gdv17i59dJ2oSZoLFXp67tPlNlxF66Xcr939qcOna-oaZHhm6Sve_alWpqwRmIWAojtPcvNC51P3QuzrA2auYaDHaj_7J5n3Ha4eHMBbCB-L7Jx3LlMIuCOA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Soria" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-4-soria-to-salamanca--405-kilometers">Day 4: Soria to Salamanca — 405 kilometers</h2>
<p>A early start departing Soria put us on beautiful mountain roads. Our unplanned route delivered more unexpected marvels, including a highlight of the trip for me. As we rode through the town of Barrio De San Miguel, we noticed ruins on a nearby hill and detoured to explore them. We made our way through local streets and alleys that put us on a dirt road up to the peak upon which sits the <a href="https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castillo_del_Abaluartado">Castillo Abaluartado De Juan Manrique De Lara.</a></p>
<p>The ruins of this fortress reflect the latest construction from 1563, but documents record a structure on the site as far back as 1173. We were amazed that there were no people there. Not just an absence of queues, but nobody at all. We were able to ride the bikes right up to the top of the hill and walk through the ruins as if we lived there. It’s a fascinating site to experience.</p>
<p><img src="https://1sxfig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m_RCNlquBQoxg1kxlBTWDKPZIU_-_Dug3XQBHRJ8Ptm1VsOf07xWIHlzIrOrgGu46u29bQv-Bx1ZH2oKVxTLRoRVNw8ejbl0MuLJhgGibMBwPgZyS_HBw7A6OMgtkAKZTkhisEokZ6o5OeLTCBH0qUXC-W0fhnPtWY7h5z4fFCyVTDXN74SNlVgZ4K-XLnjq4zH4AHi2EXdCqeNwGIEcDXg?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Castillo " />
<img src="https://1sx7cw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m4WfWS7tOB_ZEDzTpMnl4-TcBfI5GGu_DiFqfIRN-oeBjOvZFgI_YZ3qrCtuJWglTYj8unT9sPgfJUMz6B3j6A-9uETqtGkFGdGn2FsAPrCndg_cOTryvv8BuPW634z4LI5b2Q_hWsjZqQjSYm4miW3fVfrRVqehEd_gYtbz6MpTS0QERhQuXxMBhfMkCZ-LIihbj4I1gUqkj03kX4UHsLA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Castillo " />
<img src="https://1svgqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mISYwuPMmWkyNp4RqEi2-rGP3tjmgM2yOKsXO0W7YCMi_5v35jZVhTyXaneguUGB9JGqQ2GqEgrPnLvJu5cJ-1snTOd4jF37BpMrWzENkeIjZaCjpZiC6AwZ0vsz_fo61EDjYeslPRG4JqvetDVmYFnPxRuWP_ByS0XLf59NCWCU2UlBAZhgc3D2UrGqAEue04J8JHZA-9i4NszWrjGxMgw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Castillo " />
<img src="https://1sww6a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mxN7B98wfV6R-9Yi0fW2Jkd16Z7Vdr1HAxaUz_oJpPMZ_TbltQgTbyvIEA6thFTiBjx-C84HMV8Yy0NDiCL24ST98TNAc9jwnci0kGQebuCxAel80u9IX1ZX8WbvMSbgnLAydsGuNISmwOxie-y5s-i_mRA_qFxJcUlKteveUkvLEMqAyZV2knMD2LRhIvg_tCX_U5U-y583isFEpRIdiGQ?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Castillo " />
<img src="https://1suxxq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mppZOcaEJiayqx7PS2uFlCxMvfqHU06KBQO3CDXBhU2t9FcQh6pj87F0JnJlJB_rb7p-G3zzQsimqR9cGhFR-zg8_Q0m5ASULRIs2_awlfOk1xaehGTpQ8Q2J8v5kfQSYpE_PSx6TKRq7Bq6HDCFoPzRHSbRWnfXPO5BWcPl2OkvdHxCuJot2BOjFZcA34iozU6Po1wukdZGF3SQE0uP7-w?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Castillo " />
<img src="https://1sxm0q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mGCh3H7JObZlhmA2wKLWUDWCejhDhQpuqSBzbWs-gFwq0bBKeAyfvY1rrBtsI7YHeVThO0s-fHdJ2oCt5bjnA440FdvY8vl1jiUGkze3S6VL-Np8xcz1ibDtrOtZ3DlcUPnGNz3iU9bTksCG6-JrP0Eroc133dUdJ7zCmTCqdykcmmwgGabsN9R0fu5HK9Gb_gbe-MvFW3CfK86YPyGgvcA?width=1024&height=452&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Castillo " /></p>
<p>1173 apparently wasn’t old enough for this trip, because Walter noticed a sign for stone ruins from 60 A.D.. Of course we detoured again.</p>
<p><img src="https://1svnrg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mLsNjT1SutV7dUPAELtOsADjofYOvl5T3Isjw_8UtiDIAhAlvAzx-LZ9-OrpPfsLRpmsyyNPAHkeUR-8fuPbR55R-aIdN56OeXjU712FHY8FvKJe_AljOPh-gsBcqIzc3wkx2JroPmPRo9gdIZ9nz-EQjt1HaqMq88sqAgiNeY8F3IjqoH3jM_LkpdXUtljdCtBAaG3sB5YdHF9kk5G5WbQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="detoured" />
<img src="https://cjo2ra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mXoa61LhVsQh8TeoBOngNsxh6OdSmImWE4J9C7KaYeFQ8HyBRjceTOeA_KNjaudsCpDYF7PLGHJ6qBQRzQA_a8WHYU4mif3S5Nuw8tQFfomBMf_zjrbkDp0KeFZcjAijIQiaBd2EFJye9XgSCc-2QOUsYeBaFvZPce5rlljMCTWox5sPa7D-znPXrLQbWWB2FiCeUTk-CVkqIphsKNXW9ZA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="detoured" />
<img src="https://cjqbzw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mYE9iP-B8NdE341bwLKTghoh-Uf0vmsaG8MJ47lzdLZqwe1Ht-D0RzwU0DVop7HdwqSZYc1rU_6R3vq2uBZvrUDFSpuHr7Kl9J50229qq4IFN2Tur36TVzP0rqHIGcTPORYIQOg9vewFIi9YAtlQ8wAYDB0XeFF6WUv2oBnhD8PlZkxWYmQfoXUG5wDtMX6Lj520vP9mclJb-SUW-h1DQ8g?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="detoured" /></p>
<p>All of that was before lunch. And lunch, too, would be under ancient ruins. The town of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aqueduct_of_Segovia">Segovia hosts a Roman aqueduct</a> from the first century. It slopes only 1º and is spectacular.</p>
<p><img src="https://cjo9iw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mfhknCmE9KBgguubXYSw5YUD7yf-O9O9NJLoz-nsaEcV40Fv7YhtMNuM0MhvuvGIj3mhK93DipYYodUwHD4z0q2yH2AMSeFsUYt3yrLHLVxMkJPcL7IM8dQanuGZP3udFz-QmOCYBV14WoAKldDOezldO7J5lKQK3qCkywJk0Xv-vzlq_tcnNr4EO0-dRWTLojir70Ag1Foyi3Eq5w2cvCw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="text" />
<img src="https://cjryqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mFGm9YKRvYAbLhb5VmVg8I0d9c0RPzWa67Oc4M-qNIc-fSlPoLxIVGHRxcVIboRayO4UZvtJydWS3Gm5ZrjjH1PCblP7GaUmBzuUgU3ywpBNzAJQEv-EVYkLkouRKmn9yMTs6DstXxg9wP8oBi9tYxH4ePZ9GeP5M8DGv49E0YCpaQLxd3rZ4Hn2wo6u4PeXqZsOBuGJTMT4SmmnJncdKUA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="text" />
<img src="https://cjqifg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m702iWnLigVofVTOtW6_i2d9_NgnTUD4bJ_5aDhIocoI78JObnoN4X7opX8VNPkc-WRfPYTKk5naVWTeODR7bm4m2nqJGK8McqMJ7yoLYIQOc9F2NQhhT1UtIh7Rd4O4CpIVtwsX2SxguISXfiRFUR2nDo7bhHdDAjQSx--OyLMBuszpENz9rYF74A3qqtnrVs9KKHEcOcw-3yDXXtURxHA?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="text" />
<img src="https://cjpslq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mzQD3VtMstrfn-109jD-9D8BZfDtLmGoLse1pLKF4ZVHEQsfSI0bs7lEAofJUL8Fh7neL-C6lcANyVat2AsCCPEvfNOdABoyfpmMr1xgqkRTwgHqD_l_T4zX150rObuIl7QNJS8-48cOoqujDYPSGT2gkSh5RHgs78h_s-cpQb1ahjKWkFhbBi4Hu7jhRA869NQuljkUpZtxdGW-urMT4hg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="text" />
<img src="https://cjrrua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m8IGsiWp6H4_GV16A4HyvERiU33_PYjstn_i09Obc-BHZm-cDLb_xe4ZKshq3ARzvdS6-HsZjx8kbHC_mKUZzwQXisTfRoTDjIc5AA4RVbNo-IAJqqH9xBog1hjFgZ84IhXbDG-ylmOkATzMvQAGuRS2z5mlN074J3RAQfE1gGalivERZk4gqJnEiJRfWfL8ONUjxzKvTRu_R9C8PTTTQnw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="text" />
<img src="https://cjohog.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mu03Ix01OMj9TZCtBb9bjygDpuVAszGnajA35aIQdRyXWl5x8aSYyt9hlQV2WCBSFOTgIRypjQUqmrT7eIz5Igk2gWOFii02IuasESBPXgSx69k764IslAgCjPOQdL44qQui8zAOMgJL0si3uBqfGraLkXIQMlfOoVvvEPp0vp8RCYpcUGCh2vGaRdwpJVVzvxnt0GyOmmnobjj28HX1KWw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="text" /></p>
<p>We had done everything except literally ride a motorcycle into the ruins of a castle. So…</p>
<p><img src="https://cjpzda.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mFBqvQWb1vLB9_rWImXltFby3_lbg9OhMDRg7dcta-1kTuX-B8akQ3IKX6v8K5J2K7djT7O8IDmWaNu_VPg1VonZhMKeCQtqdtKuLLA6D3xPNjNzX4sWtZZvWRAWi-4e0IWzqz4iIKueKy1DZU3sRlwLOayMU2Wa3yYDz2K4-XaYp1EZBc8KxM0uIjtDIElCDNCBjTb6wNhl896kcOibg7A?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="castle" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-5-salamanca-to-casa-das-estevas--340-kilometers">Day 5: Salamanca to Casa das Estevas — 340 kilometers</h2>
<p>Salamanca is one of the most beautiful cities of our trip, and we enjoyed spending a morning having breakfast at its massive <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaza_Mayor,_Salamanca">Plaza Mayor,</a> roaming the old city, and walking a Roman bridge built in 19 B.C..</p>
<p><img src="https://popqfa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mIAKl8Ll1MF4n0su8xcuRyGhok6GagNJSv2W36Tk5Nm80FC8PqT4I-EHqvJGdTatNMi372y53X3QvzIlI53Q7HTAldU84geTUMxNI1Kv_TnjO6u8cmpDP5yYX5SMbQunV4UjkUb-K6M5ekhhv6Rs-yfUeXQGbep561PcdijQZ4G97OAbixxBofRj8UpaQ9QU2LKOuUGjitxP_TnUBGF2ZdQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cwp2iw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mBrVrb-c8kw0TFGlM0E1Fs4mVR-_UkXbRXj9re35IGdjcF8XtJ0aLZPsWFF8ai_zzbC8lgFS4fHyShnaIZBm0HBnBzrUFSPJYFY3qUksf3pQVZ39YbRmbNsrkijv2KDbof_JZRkOHyoDOpjPadShkJ4_FZpIXih6FkOYwZLmWFRpTjmRBzc6vlzONpF2VQ_fwvJKYFY9BoX5ncmXMUjgUTw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cw8bfw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mv8wCadOd4Lymdt5eJFc9FX4nA3GtndXqLArEVlvnPa2nh8AcYldAHTBMFrJQtxbXj1BpCr6VNfLkv0bO2CTDQ8FvRofmfe35F6n-ALDovzqkjomPBKtteLvWVrmmf9alnq-8aADlShnYVMNeTB6cHBLae7tWPcJp3GUf6v4jiGRGOs6Q7glbWpjNDhV3GZ18vmHlucIfD7a5ycQahmG3_w?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cwpaog.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mCeFJy-3XDZDAcSZzYKi8HIm8k1IDiMfLTl_JpWA0evmzgbcssI9fajF3S1C7bSP-U75LjwkB7LYcgu8afZ6I7hcMMEizFF7dBWyKDxJtZQeabhG8Le5MZDEGDoy4yG4dcb8MlRqExaNKvL0QK47ecnz0JohgNL2_kv1WAV1TXnEu-UrjrYkkZqKsZ9Wdf_yy-kNIVkkMg3awfgMblEsPEQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cw9kuq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mXeZDoyeYH1BncYOaCmG05olDT2-aDLIpMo8s1XxnORH9mMZdGQNnqfujKu7Zv6EaFDXxy-pd61JldqoWdwfeKstV1pQJvl3YPla29QVSOkkgsIGuVhA1ardT9Fu9iEWFg60kjLMjHwYxWKZf5nwBI7SL0cAuRzPnivLvivL43jvBSP8GSDFbWdwtibI_zXz9FSm2fEzt6R3xajC_pz6Bjw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cwqllq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mJaxzCoDhLswWUAS41fYbndxaRTUae19DV7QtlQCbEB1UfIyROt9tIRn1kzJvjbcci_8GJC-PLdNEMd9Jmop6QrP5FQ9JAMjynYvxW4HHsajnJpCiZojK-lDa9XVps9WJYGNZvQH0LbVQQN-bM4Dv8cNdWRooLDtyL23kt4QfWdaDhk4bm30BTome5M-c76qkxvl0RZTjSvnlP_h64O-bCQ?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cw95ww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m4ZCsue1FqWjPMsSS72XGEVB4isK68AExE_AHT73KpgdhGgiV-ZRaGNcTarc-csFOKgAHH9hjITMgq4OwKlj6dJq3TXIcEyA3AXD6BM4IVq7vbnTFqbUSxUYU18Q_7tDbs6VXBgmPjaWrBvWJBKTiO7j_6amXF3vQ7pFe6pMirjAtfZwadfwq-aVjryIAjTjIMWjsb_9TMlQalRYHHWjfHQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cwpvra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mvQX_kkaOzcJRwbCezRF7zlOwxDTJOnZWa8bFFf2cae-fW2FYllJX7Gub_YkB__bnf0INWHzaTe9zzZw5c53pROueNrOgUWJo_K5svgJ1rGQXKkVUWg0h99tjuaOUUC6wNCQ8515KBoWyz5r_9nPZuM5YSGxOb4go5Km1eZm42f9A7y37p3sEpWdjtRV9XRC7WYsmOVv7M5al8DzK6BQfSg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cw8u0a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m7c1xsSOZ8XTUGmjximz3EeNSLNH79Mz37xoNgxC3RKu14Rg1uJY8FZpBnfjJnGywX3PZEBoUJpVs6lcihoNYg4fHs86QuIscnLzE3Mgdv0IQElweGCDFTloKsFJ_5Gj3CP9d_-7EKk4dD3t-RVCoKXReDg4mZv8qhpskTD5yIGyAd5ENpgm-u1BYXZiXInIC9LoZI7z9FGkEOn94y6Qj1A?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cw9dcg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m8dcJJpp5EwUecEaoxBfnjA5Mf-m25QSNlE6xJaDbvZliaeRNyqtN4R61LVub7w3NFdRYSlMrpGa7Tvxv_kMwmZkgVEKgL1d5rA1tcuILx6kPst8MefMx2eTo3v6L9d14lnusyDqOvriNMT0oAzPHaAqZaijCv8FZsj0acLmioW2ngKBktf8bC2ZXu449auM3Pf-m1yUKL8otdXKx5JyFhw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cjoo6q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m2AWGrVtCWXbkzHA9ID8cyWpldwUzrNZ3e338rBFoC-PXHch1KI1RNUhzRJjqKKiWlbthNGnAKeXtoucfAxx-LgsjAebJN01TrjxZ7yGuMaQNib7YBgbA5eKw9h_YYykMpO2mz1DfucFSaiRI7eOPAzzJI0SS4TDOtapeunnDw5d7Lrqvfk3QFLVzx1n05CFgrpx1n3NcTh39DEqoX8ruTg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" />
<img src="https://cwqe5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mW4ug6SToePBM7dD0sLSR69CsTPzrEHLgMJyUOpNIXO2F1ghDm5ZcjmlIfwO-pvt1mVh7qNcYQn965_FwMmfFVOLBQqPVZbye6ZG0rmlnZYPebzNr_9oWu_sWElL_5TFX1zDn0KlYXS9ivot92YlLjHOKxrf5o4vWFp5FV3lRY04Zc5Rwvb6xu_y8R3IvxwHrmqmgWUS2vXh_M5EdN1bwXw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Salamanca" /></p>
<p>Our “Spanish Autobahn” took us toward Portugal. It was a mix of gravel, single-lane farm roads, and twisty two-lane country roads. In Portugal, we enjoyed a great dinner at <a href="https://www.vilaportuguesa.pt/restaurante">Restaurant Vilaportuguesa,</a> and stayed at a fantastic home: <a href="https://casadasestevas.com/en/">Casa das Estevas.</a></p>
<p><img src="https://poofiq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mvOnClU2mszbk46l5-loItUQ1FRol6nAXdSnfAvsghIWNooUL0FPQYvXHIFAVg_BityvkyL_nfHyNHUbE-1ONGYS-1Pw0EpLnizZNtc29DG2ytx3FqMy76VqlSoAgWBGeDo4VSo8vdXBM65v3uoGN2o1hZ6HBvMqqLn4HygLFJ2Y_6yMq3WlRAPLtVojt-ejnqiknFwlkpVkgoJnSwn20jw?width=1024&height=520&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Portugal" />
<img src="https://poo7cg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mmExs4KeeUgMG9oczjM6xeUU-brvf2Xw8zawEIDSdL7hzWSKmlo8DIamNgaDeT3GscLqHr_CmYzb_ZVz0lwcOTH3i5rZ5BMa0UfnCWtOkkplZ39OZpb6VXUGNPw9WweoY3m99SVsU1CedK6Fnf3fyKcG7kBgWm1gfq3Tj9B006_dSgaCr1i-8hA71JAfOGS1gUEAVddRqRFp67hLFoodXUg?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Portugal" />
<img src="https://ponw5w.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mEX8ust3Ygd_pAVjd9W33UF6pb8tKspftvaRExYd10KYmE1HFpqJsbiBh2OAspbKPVTDWuIt_K3LWP0Y4d8brkTNBxGRWKgEZLZpL8OsBAhhtxsFot26TpvUJndbMxkeCAnEknwzNJ0-PXApDitXYQ3wa-N4pt0f5X3UcgSt6bfhj0r85PHFT1w0eFzhrAJ641pEwAe61VwF-phkCl_9Mxw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Portugal" />
<img src="https://pomgqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mIqN-wXVPnvYIEO__JmA-a_06YHGm_XabLDMLAI00e8b1M-ZwSBh9kxb0mnlTUBloFNrChbsw1hVyo3moxI-8y5ly-w36GiEOp38aOGVaGhzCcYeGfqFBGX1tkHljnFAYW0mghWEhJgPk6jSU2gp0z07KdH3CcCk-sa335pd_0smJYCm1tuxeleszdlVwlESgFxTe3IrKgwd5rjShn5QXdA?width=660&height=494&cropmode=none#half" alt="Portugal" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-6-casa-das-estevas-to-lisbon--316-kilometers">Day 6: Casa das Estevas to Lisbon — 316 kilometers</h2>
<p>Burned some miles on the autobahn in the morning to get closer to to the coast. En route, we came across another medieval walled town — Óbidos — that time seems to have forgotten.</p>
<p><img src="https://qfhifq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mXdS2I1HMuTO9YzVBo-f_e54BXRtg5QrPNldRIcAfsm6NmKA5OxbkBgtLpdD2yP-bFjkWgo1ADAyiDBM78lBV9yqxQe0K3YGKCPjYNN1BoV3RpSUDRfhHJryW_EDj8xoxAtdt7YEXCw9AO5gckq-C3mtS_id-BegO1OfCn0bPQpT1gGQ4wSzX70rPH3JdL_C8hDwK2UFdbaSZPsrC-PkgWw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://qfjhoa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mE_2e7B8jFP_WkQg3w0Ao7UJWoW4WkbxX9cTScJNfzMHRuST5ATTBAgGDh5Unyu6A9idRjfiGj_KzX1Vy3xRJBPe9aZ0h2JRtVUbRThR1ET3-SYTEI1EWXF_4mF2ijjg442ag-gPeKorYWgX4Ha5J63f-QZdk2DIgB6DWIXs4GzVxYQHFc2qLmm5eGSOGyk-3h09xOmVqShAFbfdeAsYwEg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://qfirtw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4miH2S19PgkgJA9OR1_CuBWzOel30X47q-D27d2Uv537Aab8gfKdB94KgNRgRvYVD7dnWiM-udPT5f7uwxP3BsRb6EPugx2F8LmCc1mEOAeYGpPn7mswcfF-Tlfz8byc9tEsjnKVFyqfj9HhYXI4Szf6bj0jpJVpnik2g8mGUrg7GOm4ZsyHVfxUD9BGVbubMGJGzr12_BVVeNilvMVKdrRw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://pondlg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m4UElt_CuG-3auOQ4ux2HFfJ1ylt6DLudF_4i2JSPinVYXWdZx8PLpkH4XX1vpXydhKOdA6_QMFAzbGJzL4GNBQ9t3LtO2LcEM046PpGZ-57iweVSbeHzXPZ88pzMjt9XdTZJcckgD9FCGbf8D_lRAfBZMEheoIWxFFKab4bS9Xj1TQlb0IAt1YGLba6uRSthbJ6sskPA1veGiywkItaSfA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://qfgsla.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mMQOzeV7IooDISoH8FuNcP9zVdT7qaqHHLyNvNiTEujDDNjjMJ6v66zsT-5p_LXbMRx2pY3clRDVphUy2gBdgD_3_aRlKsJY2DR1zGUmb4MpV53mvOdV_VEM4wVac2ktZixd19mbCW9fuekbDtC21r80HSM8hCKJH-xSCJvI7ZPp7mCpys5CEabHZWDOF56YxQq8CQnBVCbsXuF6SnDucMw?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://poom0a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4meGYNmY_a9pOv8OgwGknRgK9jcEdKjEIJH7yGIXURmJ_YVCy7US-co-fgecGpZ3pWlTvftMhcgADILYswG49RFv-GZN7_ZitK9TfQ0jjc1wOc3uuXuX3YtG6l6vrbDeCu87542zeXTLRTxnzsHneKe0l2BPnc3ZMmR0xjAkKkIsmNRJt4ZCq571JNug04kjQ6f-bs7TIkCEOhQWDPOKWZCQ?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://popxww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m-MI2lPz2nwD77pbpbnMHJ56MMwfr69L1GzfvFU2wHNe800DZ4kJIS2Nf2fTOmzl-tp04FvQMT-2YK1Ry59pXSzI0NtqWdhxO9M-dGmj-OzsHvu42wzqeD2Fy5pkJmbrxY8fzb4WPDKOXLZYNbCn2mvSY6o5wsi_TIv0R7j72Tfcdh-8QBsRhPAaWxuD_iLReuMYxEeF4bgfEpvPak2FldA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://pomnrq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m4-CVZGoW1FCUQkJSrpAMrurYiaF4ovN_1BjYuRlWx3MZDJHVytlMkax-VKerNLCawmhNH_CGU1W0y9On35YQm8cWXZckoJGYizqVOazOj5PxBEytcsCBDf2Pp2az4KEaGjoUWGX2Jra6D5tqYbFxJ2um1mcvAkqS6Gu591lmPkvlS1MVSQ09J4cjiw9o0QDoSnrmUievwp3Zh1EjAOx8Fg?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" />
<img src="https://popcuq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mR4OU4nrCqjMs7QP3G0Oqjo2bWf3iyjzfp7eNwZKo7c5u3ROfcocA72MVDXa1iTVHEpvJ7SPBjMQJtGQ1lb5Bt5BICAVtCJakO_Z_Ib9DwanvcT5USzuKtPV2cJijjBmKvIeNGj_tV9GrG12PDBUj8l5NiyOsKQik8oF5rPlKi-cD0FvErhFYu0D0b4c1hHKjuKkcUJJ47NkOLCJYK1nyhQ?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Obidos" /></p>
<p>Shortly after lunch in Óbidos, we arrived at the Atlantic coast of Portugal and then into Lisbon.</p>
<p><img src="https://qfgzcw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m3n3AKevgX1M_tAXwzjT4boJ7CBmaKh6RgklTb0lgAt_msNQfpxo_6pyMjD5GniYqSyRiSr1nXdJW0BhZNhd2lHrqkW_nECgPBvA0llxnE2om6kPw-FZ3fFcu8tqneEhv7vVkyx6tbYQqu6no2fEitL12dqdqk2fe4SEXi14CYduUt5YDyNuApcs6SzpIz3k-fbv7Z1lslHq3NTRVh5jgPA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://qfiyqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mtGsQ7k14VDjWHIyY9GuoocAMO5I78IZMqamfH2CA-r6hM4Fz2yCccFHmBJGmcOt9s2_D-mEUtmycDMRzQajU09yBTZc10hpt8YtfGL6mUg9wLxjgglwDpu8E3FMjVh4oMSTKMPW0yzBYlh75D4O_UyF2yngSIMjoTJ_FQD48F6Y4CQ5rAZk7nMcmnn2WoY4_7rWHZyGJsW_zcP1vPVceUQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://qfj9iq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mzQBxO27SsiW4hk2QvKtXB39bnMRfSZCZb_Ldbnt5Gs8HlWMrAOyPIfxmIhPVeDAQXJnli0ITsd71BWqPPgiknYH3HMw5Vodf8f7LVbff8YDJ1MEIWMTELYTA_HYVIXT2nsS1eGAxKmIybH3XLLTfLMllP-j_e8kH1EmswQjdO2o-gdistXOi5IWV9l8ig0-FuJsL-_wcx-BSIi-YDtm94g?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Lisbon" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-7-lisbon-to-seville--485-kilometers">Day 7: Lisbon to Seville — 485 kilometers</h2>
<p>Lisbon is beautiful and the food at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CafehTehran/">Cafe Tehran</a> may have been the best meal of our trip. We stopped by Praça do Comércio for a few photos on our way out of town, and headed for the southern coast.</p>
<p><img src="https://qfge0q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m0aeF5W-2RNxi8wg6z4-iSAfBVF7bSYKlYQI09wCTOrbxDjWBLSESq5Msfpfd6yti5kjWJ3xQRrFZSyq6ozXWYyea30P2v7S-wuc1a93cB8uDIz97zZCs-HzoJg4yzdgDqNngE8c9tPpwPxl5oj42SOHayNInUghHznld9k0pP7E3trgkSU7n0Zq7RV0jHLdLuo-DOXoEjZGtpSHWqPLOag?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://qfhpxa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mBlf8WHeX3NriNzH1uuV6vS0zxoHl9f3vwGy-dTq2uFyWWoGGC7PJVLVw5VuQp942Z7jx0T8pwdw47BBcsAeXSywm-669b_nTD-NdvjwmXHDR5EuuvwlKZvQQ4M0RhzQ3x46KMeS9feaWWf-5Ngj3idesxbJ0XUrcWhzrk-Djhj38HCteaNfzhInfT4YBCEjImOt5TMBnvG8VHfEiVx5ACQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://qfjo5w.ch.files.1drv.com/y4ma7cWl_2oPX9C9LDqXC6D5IC9SyoxQoEdcaOCO1n7bwOpkGC3P8ujaaqXDPjv1tt3GPXMsirgBtlrZLw3JSaeFb3BlHjuP8-KcWh6Gx_p0eOjnZwhQE9b_KxG3v1CkJFPcfAOVcTWwnMnNMh6hQNl4Un2C3GHjkKmLbBOaVaoPDb9qrOVMg55oFgot4XFKUPmjLNTWIsxKlbMItaWmTKYKg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Lisbon" /></p>
<p>Seville was an absolute blast. The entire city was alive with an annual fall festival. Families were out and about dining, dancing, drinking, and enjoying the scene until well after midnight.</p>
<p>Despite staying at a corporate hotel (not much available), we loved Seville.</p>
<p><img src="https://3gxvqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mHU70xfLUuffbPF9_wp5Vat5eLxYRlsNoiBz1VeCeb5K3hlHgbbLIkyqPTsyUaUcnvhlF2-S4cSyAwd-SZpjRscUf6ZWxka-ZE3Mm2Z53_Et-mamPsLHyr3A3vdbnLo5cO0JNFXpZaw2Th4fyB3sATdepPoLrXxVzRYWzT5Mys9hImRXcdA0Z6jqsU6dxQaOUgyi8DqxJhA9_daI2ONt7-g?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://3gw5wg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mv6LxZolZNKLJlYfU69t52udWBUB7gdC-fn7pt1JDE21v4VpJjCcSRUhYKT-e8U1t9Dur6z_4V6mjLxcNMpiTbajQl0ARD2l4V11SG62N526HOZ6H-F4RrUiqJhZC-3sd_s_LMxn8IjdTtTIrp_G-faQOq1tOUbxV7f-ljnDx0ApshCJ_RfVfoWBa6uVuof6kocBiLePUBK1sA4YGicQQCg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://3gzuzg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m1OgVorOoETbWIytg0bcN5UqnyS_tittjDn5FIzwJRaF3vPxJXa0NT6UFIrOBUuyW_-WlulirhYbuXq6djNuU6vD0JMZD2va6o7ie3L3IVYyp1d5PcZvG0KHrX5S5msxEzU0XvDXrSKsq7oA06Y6NMr_8zgYNhNRJwKprayZtc0Drkyk1ya2Qo-gHj3dqcpBCUTE2PIjbAobdcipa_tGVbQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://3gylla.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mHvHu5PycdDxKfKWCx9qdVp_gvRBVAa65pdadvLwF-FtPOwdXP07XKvAAA2hFzPxAYSUieTkVqIyUXn3tgEjfo39-DUkEMv4JjTNAv05PBbwB1ms7j9fbb1wk7BX7Ef6BG8UKFqkYAD96RXVvvuk8Y7G-th0DjAN5ZLTKFXMSMiiKwuMqUcKjg2jzD09fFnpg8ajtABDBHDvDoMtV3RbLTw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lisbon" />
<img src="https://3gxaoq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mbiZpYqtaM9YYdRTU4BJRpJlVrrx2-JdCFVb40yZswK6iZc65ohIS_ftrWzUMh9AUEa4ib-RB0QR6KRSaa3THurjZ6SJI01lvA2YY8MeeKDI8csk5V62Qok59pvM_8OOELjS2mvYZ-KFDcjt00G48sue1nGT2EstIezXY_us6It0b1DOwSX2RCtJ8gzUsc2KRTZ7x8rkXuCbOgQ3HjRrx7w?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Lisbon" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-8-seville-to-malaga--278-kilometers">Day 8: Seville to Malaga — 278 kilometers</h2>
<p>Riding-wise, this was the best day of the trip. Without planning, we wound up on some of the best motorcycling roads in Spain. There were bikes everywhere! Our afternoon espresso was at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/1.VentaElMadrono/">Venta El Madroño,</a> a biker stop similar to <a href="http://rock-store.com/">Los Angeles’ Rock Store.</a></p>
<p><img src="https://3gzbfq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4me-hZC_01e17kPfaNaqQMbk_VEoBKVLbfGVhGfST901KlWv1NrpDH5NwL6vypyFClHBtcVljBdMqWJkFRDWzTOcRUjHs1Nyhp3vMIRPFcD1yVLAbW8wGVpQ_-AEjMjnvBKOV0c0KRqwmyvGsDXOTsMkT85UviDycQypB3Ou3-4_TxyZ6sFDhQHzIvTAXAPd2jbptILg6rR_dRVAFOUYYodw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Madroño" />
<img src="https://3gwrqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mvSCl23y30UaHeX8q77qKt-rLd6djIXTpISITFWko7is9qwzjJIaMSwBbmpdq1F8-McT73MrFcMLecABEa-ic2FYHxwh_fvApfM7tuS_NWYn4Rqavxkk_LCthJeROywn4G4a8sBWk8J1UeAc9rZtCbZq-EspHhRBm7xwcL1AKHWK-Sd8BMutOoylHuXLaudd8J1ua4JjBC99WmdAn8haK2Q?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Madroño" />
<img src="https://3gx2ig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m7QKies_tJTt82AYl-NJSr3GawF6BTbXMKL5LDQkXkwt_K3WycQNn4hGpCK4JUFAQkPWbKPKxo51XedNk2fhjujjJYzzZOCAI3st1vIlLcQT1b7sBWekXkGL-7nstxge0TBzOTb4oA7Qj2ka1asvJD64iqJPZ0FFaJx6gtPos2842JWlxivt7vYBfaCbIiO081pa56_QFZwP8bvuQIxUtBg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Madroño" />
<img src="https://dpf7cq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mOH7XU4sYkjEKcmhVrDVpI5cXqWLHxbIHm7drM-MEZ-zCyZsYZYq0-HHWTbFYcIt3wPiqoXYIxlp8L6-a3e3ZpkBt9E0FtoX1L-sUH0CEP41btLJvzUsLnbOVZBOtKkE_roe_EjfZep2nK_hnMy3atCIX3rCRZNmvS9crrYVcBTJu_pLrBavh146tsJFbiwvWgC7_0AApVPWYQx7gmVQxbw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Madroño" />
<img src="https://3gyscw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mtyjXHLA6fp2_ok2FFmo2vUJnAVzfvhbpS-HuzT2ovZftYXB-dnZ1VgDqw3NkkMQ_ESy60U8v7Y8Xfd5cfnMpYzt74HESEfo1iEMFemY-fdZPQYDSbfBYRCboa8112u9PipYijr-PVKBu_dA0P1dFkanquWhCwu9-FI29OSGVWYA_jhQAzWon5xIxT1YFrMjOdMyIdsdO-4cTWiA_pV6_hg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Madroño" />
<img src="https://dphgqa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mczLvuxr5lDDg5E_iFMCw4FDPVAhGh8kxvI8AZkhvyOm1vrt_0CpVTsAuTgUOUhZAzMQGTcm9kOoEPuBlemIQk666q1F5kUHbXdhAQpZMmx92vO7utd6S4s9pNhXoQ9IGkaYXZn4UjfPETZRJRWHLRhpwEaTiJvtcyoahbqBQcVCgUSJiE3S5Z6U6dK3RTgUXWJyXGhzfzRRpLL7yanh0yQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Madroño" /></p>
<p>Malaga was charming, with a beautiful cathedral and enormous pedestrian-only shopping and dining district.</p>
<p><img src="https://dpedlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mydT4dbgxNrpjtpCqgqjy3lnT9qfjq5EQoAXerIe84JjKisIoDvsYIO4poH5rGU6KwdSLRC0jz0XzZhYfHVBwUTYEys-R_h5Q4xgjZZc_AjiUX7mfNnR51OLLvGTGInhQvY8EMM-U3Qe0cFTW-zTcu2yjU1YJM-2ei13e1lsKNsqTj3T_0BDAHYEgXrVem7a3SRA6Bq3b6LusWK6KstgIjg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Malaga" />
<img src="https://dpew5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m_ocB-poFzsUp2Fc4luBmktDaMhk4ysZeXdVwcoQ05hXXPh_AGL4kzoCnM7ApMPa2aOihjb23wr5W0u8v1rSTxdJ4m8TfEeMdGIiM7SjE_hQRXTKg1fLQGHLfC_ZWzEftFWflmgfFQ_V4v9plU2CESIcystHMkC2Ne4xPIPQp0_GJdiSpoYFoQ7Om3E3_FBLGay4NwqHjpinlCvnJzzvOeg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Malaga" />
<img src="https://dphnqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mV5SsTWhLBCQ8VgyLmmNgwSb4eWmETezJBL4QgN_L5TefoPqGHFTUqMaVAsig_Og2okCWi36TIkBMMFLxdNWJV3yiBKpTZmmPR5PLkG_zDJrcXdtaKpBNDvYIsYNGEmZMZY9YpoLyqqwJxIUliKsm-JtvDJscP4Tavp5Y37bp21JaNBLdPIiPjl6SgPVAcet0aiWtUXD-frZGdPu5m-6Czg?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Malaga" />
<img src="https://dpgcua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mMf8uh8cBeZHSKaVhwYY-EKgK7p24f2Mo0QA8xOX0g1vOlsB8-YGDo2IWovuC_hHwS_G2VplLA_gFOT2WFDxPMy26XKP_meqC7IZpPJV0g_h21bJQqKQg_QS9JSWrXjKeMWByT2FPM6WNAwD4jeZZwpkk1xNlzp77BvM65KqFD2sJncxINbhlJgLKmOQjb2vIonzpD82dHL_JWwForLvsTg?width=570&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Malaga" />
<img src="https://dpgxwg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mIppHdds-uFFTeMa85tVHCm0lyx-5FjkSuzwGznvj4MDBZ6xEoIPja5lGUZWsBqdj5iyE6vMohPjDpu_9CJ92A3mbYllh4EDg_PDo8O_sZKz4IpxPcvz-XpjLFIxLs13JPF17uPz-aOZwXzsvScBjVGflC2qYDNPfKiJP-n2aC353GeFkxZdlMc8Brp8ynCegWpFAPLOyEIBjnUVrUFh3fA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Malaga" />
<img src="https://dpfmzw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mCkRJZ-B7KWqI75weUGTSf9JtGLQjQSL41kvhQJDoM5SOwWmIHv8GogNUiRpNxe6ZrfOaiTeFubQmjzb8a2QARVgIH0AaYdUBfFKArQilqKrU0KZN31eVFg8P6sfof2SGFWpQpp9CO2x5ttz4JF6kOjPVmZ4_tfzCpm7holBJvUsz8cWUbdY7XNYeCMpMMjCp0XY7peQcezHYpvMbnTl9ew?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Malaga" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-9-malaga-to-almeria--240-kilometers">Day 9: Malaga to Almeria — 240 kilometers</h2>
<p>The ride from Malaga to Almeria was entirely along the Mediterranean coast. There isn’t much more to say than: it was beautiful…</p>
<p><img src="https://dpg4oq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4msIoC46phyWL1gAbyQPuY5WBwuSiq6XfnJ6AXfY_PJobsgi9yGY7uFJXi0CzH0mEsLWvBPf3zpdrEyFPLnPYCVQP2rtHrSxf8bJDVVjVxcvTi6TeL5Qlff8QKaS69_EK0AfTdRueVR1mEVEI8Mb5GK685HCYKxW7sDPzYoOuZpskMER7fvggA4K_vZxKcM-Dhut82LbZH2PuMXjX4at01lA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none" alt="Mediterranean" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-10-almeria-to-gandia--435-kilometers">Day 10: Almeria to Gandia — 435 kilometers</h2>
<p>No sooner did we say, “It’d be tough to beat the riding over the past two days,” did Spain respond, “Hold my cerveza.”</p>
<p><img src="https://elapia.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mKw3B2eTlNcjxqJeUShGB0Yr2GdUFoNs23RC942rNYlLiaST1dHr2PLb1RxybdHf23wD5cZHzS3-vKWCtVntuo4xsKu83rZyLf1xFQM5aI_lbMrDL4hrYSHn_DpBrOpLYfhOKavo9pRfoMp1H1ZvZGBU19qv2vf3qbYZIcp1CgmlztlW-ZOs7SIDD4Byhw7Tvs0dG15ot5zwJ4iCJUvz6EA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Mediterranean" />
<img src="https://elyjfa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mHeDaRWk984cG1quT4k71ZLLlt6zlY5S4Bbr0Ilak2Dey9IzqmKfn231_8_I2QcsvoLn62yc0tHiw1AjrhVEoDD1sDYtZDA-5dC5YPvsvJ8Rwzvw17EfDl3_T2HLo1HoS-F8oyZRr_v3PCUAvN8CcL3kjmIpI3gyUR2yDzPTF_HPxooRgi9thc8G91JnD_23SbLFliHa8F5qWLzpBBJr7yA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Mediterranean" />
<img src="https://elainw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mJZwIDOn4pd98v-Pl0yY_WO5XTRAZc-mtn1iIg9st0X53hNRwQu4E_MDQ6m5reQYXlvnDATLd6xcRCQkOr9Zatoz40Y9icM75j6zwitqX3R4WeIAxSNC8US9mvyz1kNNCbefax61VgLyg3aqaJe9FntarJdE7omwC54cal3TC4R37IYZEfv-c7Jj4GSRLtBdjl52JAm8sBzhZGDjzz5kkag?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Mediterranean" />
<img src="https://dpftfg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m7e5w-k-VnO_71HvaJLtfJU8qPx60YZrRlkQV2d3yKxxop1BLEgfZ5Tm_GiDABq6inI3Y7cTTEZZ114kjvJmK83DdKO855yc9zob-H8oirKzIqYSOq-UxfC4doQKyK0yTYixwYs_pSyzYgAGJBxwymgjKnx6JTZDP6J2jIT0RTUjVy-M_fORclUv5fY-Qy4PYLzmIZUhnfxLK2WIJ8q0aGw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Mediterranean" />
<img src="https://elzzqq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mO5fnsbphP-GrGIIfFLJyHDqshzB9t5VbcHAmMssDJ6vTDC6q4fdgZhN_S-sVl_CBLwSlJIliCMpZ3WQTiDCPz1OXH_njVEO47YvtaB88MGx3UedT8pxJ3AHkn63OXIN82bFTv-EKfJXeci9CUc8PLc0rkyDJtEOGFRYqinbF-tMstZfsl6IC2zz9wJTTvNjRkfJYLc1hbbkk0vE53xdPfA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Mediterranean" /></p>
<p>I had the great idea to book us at an “adults only” hotel on the beach in Gandia, thinking that’d mean no kids. It turned out to be a senior citizens resort. The beach was nice.</p>
<p><img src="https://elap5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mCzSaVI7Sf7sQzrJCa7IAVduFb-sR8bX87sEIeGf_cB_mT1EHQnuKU7Czp0XrDTY76PqfAs_A2n7JMjnW1yrk474Jp5ib8oveYcLivDTUW1cwNeOilLfEOAFlclPj1ATq3zATDWJoN5wdLFiHGaejrzAqoH4LQ4xz-9UU2FRZslNWYABUDTgw8Q6VijIeI8j7vRODVU45q-c_ehTGohDTwQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Gandia" />
<img src="https://elb0cq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mWaJ7AJFiPwTwgCz7WkevJyorTegH410fF476kJ44YWUlHLQuURpETUtNO0WYzpkm4fuVxBDYNZYUrMYPRfrmYbZ5pH8gEa1D00HfqSVNrsVnlDSfLoXSSY4q4tjC9jl4dRk8ZXCYm05Teb_FtMWDF6FW49tQVQJ7wRMPSwQMlH8nPCQo4wC8hwNazV2X8Iu0mdGGb2xUWZIraUHq4WYhLA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Gandia" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-11-gandia-to-benicàssim--185-kilometers">Day 11: Gandia to Benicàssim — 185 kilometers</h2>
<p>Another day entirely along the coast, with a few detours along farming roads. We had a nice break in Valencia, and explored roads, ruins, estates, and farms that no tour would ever see.</p>
<p><img src="https://elyqww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mXZ0ECbXXQgdPr-NS252yERnVhROoww6i4a9QWJUdr3AgdUYHyktFArT4YEJsdNRTzS7v6IgZdKdKrEkRHdtxsjhggqREOi3aRf3gDs_wdsvqG49popnGX1bYL9fxAmuor3ScKVnL_39dGrELiBiX358qYOESc2CeAgqxdHtLNdamIvc5PlKUeviX7ehlo72p9LUFuXNHAaiNq1OG-64OTg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Benicàssim" />
<img src="https://elzgra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mQ2CTlYOE_oQ5qp-dAt4B--KL9L2tUgG-uLOvmQBjMwPrkFy0B5KYGWVx8iBvbPRAS6-xwUIkK6VP9Cgv45KZGZlpHra4mXXphQFxp1EzxhS80-QM8yfXBr4FGRp7EPkIDUEI60hJ39OAoG6cJ3zZjXGmHzhV9zr1rnqsg8-_uouAWw4bIADAlqtvwwCWodfwzlstZpqbBCRWlfcORPWF7A?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Benicàssim" />
<img src="https://elbfzw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mKC_LcT90nv80Wp17N8GjA21tEER2Eh_MH5mwrV6BnX5n7mbK4bkDYK9f2dvNBujydPYcX9uxmHkGfiie9LNSU3Xz78Ml83UE_dK-MZZUyM7oZtC12Q34NDy6uh6TITpXJC11dDUOT8LNd8vZ3uGbShlX59E-GL8uRvAsWR9wxaO5K0qj8VpyExhmHM_5-dWSAaf5nCKtUtUOwTg1nWPGgw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Benicàssim" />
<img src="https://rcovqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m8fDZXADQwfNeVFedu4OTeDz51gIDEL5TUjrfqMCOBj5qneTJtSu6xvLr7hrYsc4yQsHMoWbac4HoljwS3Ic5Ui10mkyi1XOngnuWJQ94qxDHxePQad-cPpE8tPrvKPy0vZevlql7VLG5AJwWhvIv8CDFw5BUeFHh-Qrh7o8w0ouO_PMX3iSadYGmKT1y24nPU4KliSAhQtRKEGk0-11RLQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Benicàssim" />
<img src="https://elb7ua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mucHheXU1w84xVzVI8ORtQlpaQVgw1bYDVyBRYnY1fNd701aDaEBEq1Z2dfHROOU_sOaUGZg8uQPPhBqG5czCRsbM8sWOCoQgzJozRKFkXiCmqCc-V6QayGsXj1_Vk4EK7N7OP3Guchh1AzovoLRepfFPdMBMxrNBkmxPNDK2pBM9Mr8cjYF2au2lwC0Y-_XrI-HoFaSAIhhaKw8TLkl4fg?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Benicàssim" /></p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-12-benicàssim-to-barcelona--280-kilometers">Day 12: Benicàssim to Barcelona — 280 kilometers</h2>
<p>Our final day featured more coastal riding and a lunch stop in Tarragona, which was home to the ruins of a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarragona_Amphitheatre">Roman amphitheater</a> from the first and second centuries. It was closed but we got some nice photos.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcplkw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mq_hS3ITJafx64H8zi8OJK6Kc-qNYWXayc6ONxyG0TsA3spzrVCu8BkKs1mIe9Y9ItLx42U-nGn3IPubIOSQbasPc6J5-B5knbdmE4SirmT_qbhjJTIWvw50M2PlBnzQryrFI_53S7TUePKcfwjK8Bf2EVrLV3W40U0iTeOkqmNeuyWOSXI0quxJ3Y2osqL0527SM_mafGiCDDr49V8KC2Q?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="amphitheater" />
<img src="https://rcrktg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mPYJ39CimznKiuUQoqU9-VZgWTvaWLWXz8tzZiQyDUig1fCVUWSn4QDdZEQriVzl9s2Y_eE_ehg36ZDSJmQNqM6EE7ScouJ9UKYv4B2vSVDnSyN5E2qpvdnxNpLLu1CjMsC7kMR6ge0av9_N4VJ_PO10f8tykwqfycXII_SFpSu5ugjaMjzHru8U51kF6VnoUI1d6XiYkJm3mbK32lsC-Vg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="amphitheater" />
<img src="https://rcoaoa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mpYgTKP8MrzZolzu1lfrdpnB5pBC2qMBNlLqKkG2YwBsCmVPzlVXb8ao2LoQAm4Jqgf7Uv35qf-5zZqfycIUvRk_C5wA0Fk9SWwE9Z5rX77Vu4yObUpJ94Xia-UMVmT3ZSd-Vs4Prm91h4AAnK0dOLE_UcZ2UF6Z5Dboa7vKcGws79Q7LFadr5A169SirzZGdcv1ZEO1WSFCrIH0UheGROA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="amphitheater" /></p>
<p>A final autobahn blast brought us back into Barcelona. After twelve days of sunny, warm riding we got the bikes back to the rental shop just as a rain and windstorm was kicking up. The timing could not have been better.</p>
<p>Walter flew out first thing the next morning, while I had an extra day in Barcelona to fill a shopping list for the family and visit <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagrada_Fam%C3%ADlia">the Sagrada Família</a> to get a few photos of the construction progress since I was last there.</p>
<p><img src="https://rco2iq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mV5Qv5HJTA24JDaFmp_Q_RkmboUzvEnts_V1Viq81ljLu9gJxMsbYOwUh8JHWTD7OoEngYbeTrI1IHlEGS0eT4muCHIIunYwM0IPknFJpZz1XIBOkMYBLwsULQZX8jpy2YSHBbZOe_fCexclj9nInpOc68Wm-gX44RNsAYs-WtcS3-k30KsDwsAkQpQdvUkETZgRQGjcGTD7Usd8D6f3p8A?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Sagrada" /></p>
<p>All in all, another fantastic adventure around Europe. Spain, Andorra, and Portugal were all spectacular places to ride and explore.</p>
<p>We’re already planning our next motorcycle trip.</p>Jeff HenshawBack in 2016, my good friend Walter and I rode around Central Europe on motorcycles, exploring both the cities and the beautiful countryside of Italy, France, Germany, Czech Republic, and more. That ride was so fun that we promised we’d do a similar ride again. This year we did exactly that.Riding the Production Livewire2019-08-12T00:00:00-07:002019-08-12T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/livewire<p>A long, five-year journey is quickly coming to an end for Harley-Davidson’s “Project Livewire.” Nobody knows yet whether it’ll mark the beginning of a new century for the motor company, leading with technology the way that it has led with lifestyle and brand marketing in the latter half of the 1900s. Or whether it’ll become another product in a long line of motorcycles that offered too little, too late in an effort to draw in a new generation of riders. One thing is certain already, though: Harley has shown that it can build an amazing electric motorcycle that is a joy to ride.</p>
<p>2014’s tour of an H-D electric concept generated a lot of excitement by blending three awesome things: motorcycles, zero-emissions electric tech, and the legendary Harley-Davidson brand. <a href="/dear-harley-davidson/">In a letter of support to HDMC,</a> I urged them to blend three more awesome things: get to market first, handily beat competitors’ range specs, and land Livewire at a price that was accessible to a new generation of riders…</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Come in at or under $12,000. If you overvalue your brand and expect to get $20,000 for Livewire, you’ll scale about as well as Brammo has at $19,000. That’s not Harley scale. Premium exclusivity might work for a short period of time, but don’t try to extend it to the point of irrelevance.</p>
</blockquote>
<h2 id="harley-achieved-none-of-those-goals">Harley achieved none of those goals.</h2>
<p>While the industry waited, H-D took over five years to bring Livewire to market, during which we saw Brammo purchased and extinguished while Zero Motorcycles rose to lead the market with specs and price. But the truth is that the five years don’t matter as much as the specs and the price. Those five years gave us the benefit of Tesla alleviating range anxiety in EVs thanks to their battery technology and supercharging network. Five years also allowed Harley to create a stunningly well-built, beautifully designed, and uncharacteristically high-performance motorcycle in Livewire.</p>
<p>But what of specs and price? At $30,000, Livewire is obviously designed to be a halo product… an ultra-exclusive attractant to a brand that cashes in on the masses purchasing follow-up, more accessible derivatives. Witness the Tesla Roadster versus the Model 3, or the <a href="https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2018/9/12/17851918/apple-watch-edition-discontinued">Apple Watch Edition</a> versus the aluminum Series 4 of today. If Livewire had a clear spec advantage over competitors like Zero who sell for a third less, the $30K price tag might be a little less insane, but not much. As it stands, it smacks of tone-deafness and inner conflict at Harley.</p>
<h2 id="test-riding-ahead-of-availability">Test riding ahead of availability</h2>
<p>The production Livewire bikes are being built now and will be delivered to pre-order customers like me in the coming weeks. A handful of final-spec production units are touring the country for test rides. They’re garnering very positive reviews from moto-industry journalists, which is great to see. They’re also giving customers a chance to experience the real Livewire, on real roads. I met up with a team of Livewire experts from both HDMC as well as our local dealership, <a href="http://www.eastsideharley.com/">Eastside Harley-Davidson,</a> for a test ride this morning. This is how it went…</p>
<p>Harley is conducting these test ride meetups at cool motorcycle-centric locations, which is brilliant. Here in Seattle, it was at <a href="http://www.thewickmoto.com/">The Wick Motorcycle & Coffee,</a> a cool local spot deeply influenced by the local hipster moto community. This was likely a more inviting spot to a broader community of riders than a local H-D dealership would have been. Plus the coffee is great at The Wick.</p>
<p>It was nice to have different makes of bikes coming and going, removing some of the bullshit Harley-Davidson brand exclusivity that will harm the motor company more than it will help it in the coming decade. It was also cool to have a block of street closed off for the Livewire, making it easy to get great photos and chat up the bikes with other riders.</p>
<p>They had all 3 colors of Livewire available to see and ride. My pre-order is the orange. It looks even better in person, slightly darker with a burnt tone. I’m glad I chose it.</p>
<p><img src="https://orgdcw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mWqSyB06rLE6yhwhOH2CzyGYjTr3i-2uYqivFs8XfzrMiPuuuroqIf26qknv7Mzuj9R9gxNMIfMTZe-BUGHEbOtOcRS88JT3NZomiH49SRipxq-ypl65JsDokQvwV8pMUlQ0vc2NFz8kBwUeBl3ZmNVVlyaw6aIfRgV8FqcgjKDhjP5PKaWC_a7E7FgsFTiy6PTko6lLWyxCLcjrOjnkUZg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://oree6a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m0U583NRNdyiYnu_dzpAx1BwYqEccilJ9zcPtUF0UWEXEKBmM7F0xGxKcIDvbXwh51FsudNPZrxDhnj0C42AjU0r6QHliQs9zwWBkBNmuBi1joqcpe7XmT7f4kmfTKcCZGlAJcYYqxx28KQhCs-ZDMr2c-YB7pfKdkdgWCvZ8yqsL2rp3pThmmMKyS0p78zc25rQYERgCDxNuPpLBp1LeSw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://1sxgig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mcEwAkpt7qFCJifU32t06uaToaNbXOh6-XRaq2NerqP7R93gVU1GpbgmkFb_zdSNe5qwEQQvXByxJ09RC0KVyM3raXGqbMo7QFAkpSZ5iwGj86d0zQ-8zIXhjXxqln-hL1I0eRuS9YCXaA0NTNfU3QTvTwuGUYi8b2jaO9YB5TqW8PJjSS3MBOmxgpMDK_DXZmrqoLyREdE4CJ1Z3Ty3Ajw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Livewire" /></p>
<p>The event felt well-organized by experts. When I arrived, they had a greeting table to check me in. This is where they make sure you have a license and endorsement.</p>
<p>From there, riders are ushered onto a fixed-position test bike to learn the controls and how the display works. It only takes a minute or two for seasoned riders.</p>
<p><img src="https://1swqoq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m5--QX_uLpM1VEWaoS0eNSGFCfTo0MARm8q1PcQjPUyZ1QtOvqIdRRnznv6S6tfCtTUkeplWDdhnQLTJRdsUtRPFZuSsXQegA3bwS_jL381552_k3_OgrTyGX8010NGeddDGVT_lfWQ9SXSS5Q-P4tp34VAsks3KhVs-IvDmyGndSVWbiIwR3RpUtSd0SClFMwR4_Df2Mb-XJ6XiZn6TcKQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://1surfg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mNiuXUl_W2y1G-Wh4P7Uwr-pqu-cZRu0l4s0fj69zSo-0I9TrbVvZYtwcx75uT1g9MuYwurpOy9wh6xeKkYlT_M9ZGlaoIcWuEp8vTDrTg86CNrW1Kp0tkUWMFLgDdHiQFx8Wc1MI9Ff2RTBvfSFMBSGrSXp9WzG_Um-dNmIOtq_pGiJ4PIwi9Sf7u2uPFLhrsnLyu5gtAG1nKd09btPKBw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://orhvrq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mZDvXnvRpHJ8DaB1tV9yErOa3TKcTPWoU4VGISzq4dFBqxs3OlOMYZoNvQ5VGlhAPWxvBO8hHqMvb1Er6bUmynuKKWPzZgZD8ZEai5-xGY8HoD4FeBzg1DnXPm_RLpLwmjeqMiNZU9SBllI4Nkn73NKKk0ALOoJsgO0Avn8d8M3LjY4dN_VrB9aBYPBhxC8KO2AWxCNWENgTwFPybzzXiDA?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Livewire" /></p>
<p>A slight miss is that they should have had record of me riding the prototype Project Livewire five years ago, and allowed me to bypass the repeat training. But hey, you don’t become a tech company overnight. Rider profiles will one day be more valuable to H-D than the designs of their motorcycles.</p>
<p>There was a chance to ask questions and talk to experts in between test rides. These included factory and dealership personnel. The team of people organizing the rides and answering questions was extremely knowledgeable. Lorie, the district rep below, is working on getting the cool Livewire shirts available ASAP.</p>
<p><img src="https://1sx1la.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mL6x2OqHBPITW2TGa2db5wQYf-qJ7j2804dqYvSHYR66myPVj6AmVnRX8YzUXnDbKCt4M-P6vkSwVbl9S-vMu4qEYUtekVl0zd2FvicGRpCr9xOlh3GvOF9PM0SWSDPYYGumbxxs3Ubkh4JwZbpYAijP8vb2owZhD3c1bTo8rilbuhBJxfdNpH2ITUCUWSu30ZRQaYoS6OQ_NOImsKeTYcQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://orgkug.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mnU80yboHGQ7knocfCeVmBMyQv-EJ-Yl6ll_OpExx0jD3KuanWKiTiDRnEENZLyQrXAcX08DCxnoJBHeG6XYNyxmWc02HdJsv0S1lgPt7zh8Qadg95PXri3xxLq8QpHcgMMP5FEXWgYFOGfjVpAjMXkEuLNM_fnTejUwOUpjERr2cJzpBQ4h087EwM0jtGSgbd_drW6J1TKzW-tUIyKxr6A?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://orfu0q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m6xio2B-uMMQNPlJdZsc2874tko5m6fcwEnO5iSfKTeoyoNQFDwLjz6R61b9HV6POlkQohRhR4Z0upEFDNUA62e7Km0XApA651khSW4E0IsjMS61b1xjlNVWzYuDuce4PmpRZx-6yebaqFjr5x6AptG6dASKFi1asvPuKDKSYTa6fVify2iaK-T1VuXafMV1JCVo_0UEdlTnBbB47vR3Nnw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://orhaow.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m9HTxfz4_8BXHNOSXQ2WVzD5sEgUY8Mv_geBIJ7DMEn9zx46ahYAHTwHkM5UNAF0twNdseqiRyG4TOj71bpqLu4EXt_eoog4AaYi3hfS7v3Zno_asnFBrdzdidmlb4miw99yEyP8WlBQHXEFRGhClPHNxYj9uR7jOSS_a49cgJKDoNEw5ktT5ELw5pHwNzJU5A_b11ySduX0C2A9IHjItWA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" /></p>
<p>Unfortunately, this Livewire test ride had guide and sweep bikes that were loud big-twin petrol motorcycles. For people that don’t ride in groups, that means a motorcycle in front to guide everyone along a route, and a motorcycle in back to ensure nobody falls behind. That in itself isn’t abnormal. In this case, it was apparently due to some test riders going rogue in another city and damaging a motorcycle, so a guide and sweep were added here in Seattle.</p>
<p>There were extra Livewires on hand at the event, and they should have been used for the guide and sweep positions. As it was, the ICE (“internal combustion engine”) bikes generated so much noise that <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eastsideharley/videos/1319249291571848/">most footage sounds like the traditional loud Harleys</a> instead of Livewire’s signature electric-jetfighter-scream.</p>
<p>In person, the production Livewire’s design significantly exceeded my expectations. To my eye, it’s a beautiful bike that just happens to be electric. The build quality seemed impeccable, with high-end components used everywhere. I had a few questions about the onboard software, which a factory rep answered favorably. I’m accustomed to my Tesla’s driver feedback, and Livewire includes many similar features.</p>
<p><img src="https://org5xa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m46AAtOUhmqamPp7M03T6CpnFIQO0qVc9p4hfQz60Hf_pd10vSh0lzQ23LeDZkSfq1TsonRMy-Y0dDwrtGXOSRuHoQ2Q_HlMc-ozgH--EunVZt1DNLFi1xShQqxIsiE-Cn7wTil57IDdkJ4JbkfKQPUfeJdczPBt72AOTiFANyQcbBNl54dGDFBjZekYR8Rq3vOU0tsSlKiaopkbn7MiuLA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://orellw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mJAfTxGSVJWbLkVeZxQX5Hw82CptBLXvCB3XZpKAZnkopAv9Bg1cttygbF0jJZ0_DT_yeyVGIDXMBh8TVPcPyh2yBLZQYqE1fLSK4eLxAE6cyFu7GfMnHsPur1J0GvvFsZKmAlZ3G-gDlgiO9PO9z5neJRCRz9MVOy8fxcZBtHIKDAmtJRK_qVIY8WtXqjU1Jf9YQWrfIrXih4ODFhYdImA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" />
<img src="https://orfnig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mfPiEMhth6zV0TehxTwPRoSvy2Pdij5UNRZmd1tZyN_kFqaKoTCEIAzKLx3Lt9vflwb-IanbRDywQV_K6VfN_361FKEzRjRkJBZWYf8EK-MVwKct2stWmxtsocR6DBX_gN6v812acqh856OiKVhuUMDFPizCwcjhzLlg3J-IzZnwoMnOXjXQETkPgWyn6t1xDRWtSbWMCeTX8QEeTyQibDQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Livewire" /></p>
<p>Of course, the real story of the day was the ride. Because the sound of Livewire is unique and different from any petrol motorcycle that H-D has ever built, I left the audio from my test-ride unedited. Off the line, you’ll hear the wind-up of the drive gears, followed by a lot of wind at speed.</p>
<p>There was a stretch of road where I opened it up a bit, passing at about 80 miles/hour. This was broken into three acceleration stages:</p>
<ol>
<li>0-30 under light acceleration, less than half throttle. This was followed by me slapping my visor down because I saw a stretch of open road and knew I had some opportunity for fun.</li>
<li>30-55 under about half throttle. This felt like extremely hard acceleration on a normal motorcycle. Very satisfying.</li>
<li>55-80 to pass. Pure bliss. Motorcycle nirvana. Boundless torque and only the wind to attest to your speed. This is at 1:05 in the video:</li>
</ol>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yuUOoP1YlOE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<h2 id="delivery-is-only-weeks-away">Delivery is only weeks away!</h2>
<p>There should be no doubt in anyone’s mind that Livewire is an amazing motorcycle. It’s not for everybody. In fact, most of Harley-Davidson’s customers will continue buying big-twins for years to come, and they’ll enjoy the sound and instant range that they get from gasoline motorcycles.</p>
<p>For people that have been pleading for Harley to modernize and diversify their product line for years, this is what we’ve been waiting for. It’s a sporty, clean, efficient, zero-emissions acceleration machine that will handle corners better than anything the motorcycle company has ever produced before.</p>
<p>It’s sexy, it’s fun, and it’s the future. But it’s still $30,000 which puts it out of reach for most of the market that H-D needs to attract. I may well decide that it puts it out of reach for me.</p>
<p>We’ll see.</p>Jeff HenshawA long, five-year journey is quickly coming to an end for Harley-Davidson’s “Project Livewire.” Nobody knows yet whether it’ll mark the beginning of a new century for the motor company, leading with technology the way that it has led with lifestyle and brand marketing in the latter half of the 1900s. Or whether it’ll become another product in a long line of motorcycles that offered too little, too late in an effort to draw in a new generation of riders. One thing is certain already, though: Harley has shown that it can build an amazing electric motorcycle that is a joy to ride.Riding the Zero SR/F2019-06-22T00:00:00-07:002019-06-22T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/zerosrf<p>Five years separated my first and second rides on electric motorcycles. Back in 2014, <a href="/dear-harley-davidson/">I rode a prototype Harley-Davidson Livewire,</a> and enjoyed the experience enough to put money down for the first production unit. I believe that electric bikes are an important part of motorcycling’s future, and I love <a href="https://www.tesla.com/model3">my other EV.</a></p>
<p>In the years since, <a href="https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/">Zero Motorcycles</a> has refined their line of electric bikes. As H-D announced the specs of the production Livewire, Zero countered with an all-new model that will define the company in the coming years: <a href="https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/zero-srf/">the Zero SR/F.</a></p>
<p><img src="https://cjrsua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mv2DpGl8u-YZoIAVJVLn0EoPae1OdWsQeX7jwhfez28RKYL-J06dbj9OWPKiizXsYGeUEec8xb5kef42-c7wpQ8VJV5EqcvACDjoDCzs_vfZaWZoGESEikujKYuN1OQMwhy8j8PkF6h7WZMprd6E1UPFi8ntl-oCfn1ZJ4_VQszRikhz_PkH3Cios_TqX44gHj9jE9tYUccWguJ2IY8Fgjg?width=1024&height=560&cropmode=none#whole" alt="stickers" /></p>
<p>I visited <a href="https://www.northwestmoto.com/">Northwest Moto,</a> a sister company to Triumph of Seattle, to ride their demo SR/F. These are my impressions, the good, the bad, and the ugly.</p>
<h2 id="the-good">The Good</h2>
<ul>
<li>Zero has designed a very sharp-looking motorcycle. The lines are clean, color schemes simple but attractive, and the mix of metal finishes work well without being overdone.</li>
<li>Build quality seems quite exceptional. Zero’s previous models always looked and felt cheap to me, as if a boring designer created a bike with a limited production budget. Not the SR/F! The bike felt solid, welds were clean, and the paint and surface finishes were professional. It’s as well-built, if not better, than any Japanese import and on par with build quality from European manufacturers and H-D.</li>
<li>The SR/F felt nimble, powerful, and confident. Acceleration was good, but it did not feel as quick as the Livewire prototype (we’ll need to “compare” production units!).</li>
<li>At speed, the ride was very quiet. This is an aspect of electric motorcycles that takes getting used to. But after a few miles, riding with just the sound of the wind is very relaxing. It’s like riding the future. When a loud petrol motorcycle rode by me in traffic, it seemed silly by comparison.</li>
<li>People are excited about them when they see them on the road. I was asked twice, “Hey, is that electric?” during my test ride. Given that Seattle is one of Tesla’s biggest markets, this isn’t a surprise. But it’s always great to see people interested in motorcycles.</li>
<li>The storage compartment in the space normally occupied by a gas tank or air filter was cool! It’s got room for gloves, glasses, phone, etc. It’s great to have space for storage without having to add luggage. Unfortunately, you lose this if you add the extra battery pack, but it was great on the base bike.</li>
</ul>
<p>Here are a few shots of the demo SR/F, highlighting the great build quality and design that I liked.</p>
<p><img src="https://cjptlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m91eN9M3ivUalJ-kWpApj5I8dD_Y6SXfXsVqJ5bYGI_QJwTRiIJWz4REDclQIXQRarz01OZQZsX3JCOA1w_R-JBNHH4rz8LZzkRgbnuB-68Uhx0mak81vp0KVODZzC_vFgZqowyoAluks6roDbt7RWmpN6FkFI_OqbQLpUU_0-Qa6LkLNPCqhWrSuKFGQ1hkKBBBGyKUJOoPGho6O0jMwHQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="srf" />
<img src="https://cjrzqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mPiepyssFTZsW9vx76ZLfN-SAOOhh54jDV1lhTM1-bB5Iv-KGyH3hg12x2Cmfgj7DwQtJ3zymOf5COu9BdbAWjq9tr1hovcB7z-ckCWMi6cpyR2Z5TxQF0_y1dmoKNoPd3nMog736THXFXhORsmSAmhBiuduc4ovs0lNfy3mhO-jc3knK7rPAjlAITqaJxNNJhf6_-0QxuI9vULDjkC2JTQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="srf" />
<img src="https://cjoiog.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mAUFeG7NJQlU3PIm_RwBU6MUXv0PfVJzYMeKpvU6z6hv4MdsRSfhS921NtF0ABNil3raxWLxnkMdFBlTC-JbzNfWnyfNXOjMo5ui24320dh9gQlBevJfR3VMePpnIr2bU7l0C7pefkPVePSAAgyr_EFG-Wc2eteTgIqkg4iArse9EXgyD_xA21STIj0OBTbgyy6a8mu19KsO5EKxaPyxiyg?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="srf" />
<img src="https://cjp0da.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mC9jAgNfovZ6DLyiLLy2ha3YSZtThip0S2Qv5dkR2iGXXkeBl5IOxWWVVHcd6U0AdnS8EQFDGqsl3E7_POriZ432TXCYnFMA-js1GDnAZ75dFrvkOTZ51KFoc4M00V-A_i2ZeQsv9E16a-mgXLFBy-Cl2yjww97vkfavKsycpV3BBotDml_VsOA1PU6jVHUYhdobrU_LwPs4esz_TG2W5wg?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="srf" />
<img src="https://cjo3ra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mmXkc194aHOifD0Yrm0GqfNdWsr4xrcXIoK89_Xj11bRdHtqu0bJuvgMbyM8QUM_xjZi9SaxKIQE_WZXe4pgHOxpVHc8eNG2-hAmQULH_5V3DJsXf4gw3uPpRot7beggCHHJTdIMJudN58tLIXmtTPtAesg48PDze0jYnCSGueTV493SCDLHp_GKU64LChluyQyVOPKaVOTDpxViD7GITIg?width=1024&height=520&cropmode=none#whole" alt="srf" /></p>
<h2 id="the-bad">The Bad</h2>
<ul>
<li>I was disappointed by the regenerative braking. I have become accustomed to very aggressive regeneration resistance, to the point where I expected my Tesla brakes to last 100,000 miles. Even on the conservative “street” setting (as opposed to “sport”), the regen didn’t slow the SR/F the way I’d like. This may be adjustable via Zero’s mobile app; I hope so.</li>
<li>The caliper brakes disappointed me. Zero went with Bosch brakes, which are fine. I’d prefer the stopping power that I enjoy with Brembo brakes on my other bikes. Zero’s brakes felt mushy highlighted the weight of the bike — a hefty 500 pounds fully loaded!</li>
<li>The visual instrument cluster seemed cheap and small. I get that Zero is using the bezel to house indicator lights, but the screen-to-bezel ratio makes the screen seem small and cheap compared to something like <a href="https://www.bmwmotorcycles.com/en/discover/engineering/technology-detail/navigation-communication/connectivity.html">BMW’s Connectivity unit.</a> On a bike of this price, nothing should feel cheap.</li>
<li>Aftermarket parts aren’t available yet in any meaningful quantity. This is a problem for many new bikes, but Zero has absolutely no personalization options available on their own site as of this writing. Both Honda and Triumph do a great job of having at least a skeletal catalog of parts available for their bikes on launch day, and third parties fill in their catalogs over time. The SR/F begs for bar-end mirrors. Perhaps something out there from <a href="https://rizomanext.com/">Rizoma</a> can be made to fit? There are a few <a href="https://hollywoodelectrics.com/collections/zero-accessories">things</a> starting to pop up.</li>
<li>For my height (6′), the SR/F is slightly cramped. My knees were bent a bit too far for comfort, and the riding position was just a bit on the aggressive side. This isn’t horrible, and it won’t be a problem for many riders. It’s also likely reflective of the SR/F’s primary use cases of urban riding and commuting. But I wouldn’t purchase it without some options to adjust the riding position a bit, including handlebar risers.</li>
</ul>
<h2 id="the-ugly">The Ugly</h2>
<p>In fairness to Zero, there isn’t much ugly about this bike. But there are aspects that kept me from being excited enough to purchase one:</p>
<ul>
<li>Braking at low speeds generated a pulsating grind-whine from the bike. I wanted to attribute it to the regenerative brake system, but that should be very smooth. The SR/F pulsated with a whine that sounded mixed with a stiff brush dragging, almost like the sound of a warped brake rotor spinning. It may be normal operation, but it didn’t sound good and had me concerned that a mechanical part was failing. The test-rider after me mentioned the same complaint.</li>
<li>Range is less than promised… just like every other EV. There simply aren’t electric motorcycles available yet with the combination of range and charging solution sufficient to alleviate range anxiety. The first motorcycle manufacturer to license access to Tesla’s supercharger network will get my money.</li>
<li>At $19,000 – $23,300, the SR/F is a miserable value. Of course it’s a new technology, of course EV batteries are expensive, of course it’s an alpha-purchase. But this is a great $12,000 motorcycle that will cost us $20,000 to purchase because it’s still early in the cost reduction curve of the tech. While a miserable value, it’s not obscenely priced like Livewire. At $20K, the SR/F is worth a consideration for people who really want to commute emissions-free on two wheels.</li>
</ul>
<p><img src="https://cjqjfg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mKYVHKMIKxTvhHEQVzD9u5b7-kMZgt5QPgQnmHvMbq0v8gcBXvxvpBN8ZiYF8XhsdASvRiC5U733eN5Jua3f_sFwU3DDXmD8u3BAt00UA1UKZxyVvOYyCj-5hlWrr9kfBq2qfWbg6hW2dcdJRg0c-3GnUiJx1Y0UsxnnoiRygoQ9NtU2smnsNNrPKyb_FXHcFD4rkbRosMzzzvgb7XwIGAw?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="srf" /></p>
<p>My test-ride of the Zero SR/F did reinforce something that I have long believed: Electric motorcycles will be a vital part of motorcycling’s future. It’s great to see multiple manufacturers bringing new electrics to market, and seeing our favorite brands reinventing themselves around electric technology. There are still many years of hard work ahead before electric bikes ascend to a primary role in the global m/c market, but it’ll happen.</p>
<p>In the meantime, Zero earned my respect for building a nice bike, and I’ll gladly recommend that every rider give it a spin. It’ll be a fantastic solution for many riders out there. It’s not for me… yet, but I’ll be watching closely as new models roll out from Zero Motorcycles.</p>Jeff HenshawFive years separated my first and second rides on electric motorcycles. Back in 2014, I rode a prototype Harley-Davidson Livewire, and enjoyed the experience enough to put money down for the first production unit. I believe that electric bikes are an important part of motorcycling’s future, and I love my other EV.The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride, Seattle2018-09-30T00:00:00-07:002018-09-30T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/gentsride<p><a href="https://www.gentlemansride.com/">The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride</a> is a global-scale charity motorcycle ride that takes place around the world each September. Benefiting men’s mental health and prostate cancer research, it involves over 112,000 riders in 600 cities and 92 countries. The ride raises about $6,000,000 for important charities.</p>
<p>Global scale isn’t the only unique thing about “DGR.” It calls for people with classic- and vintage-style motorcycles to dress up on ride day, and parade through their city in high fashion. They’re very serious about the spirit of the ride, and have <a href="https://www.gentlemansride.com/about/style-guide">requirements of bikes and clothes in the DGR style guide.</a> This was all apparently inspired by a photo of Mad Men’s dapper Don Draper on a Matchless. That’s a bar exactly none of us will meet!</p>
<p><img src="https://cwqf5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mFdZRKmP0uYP2O9J3NXnnnXb5TBUSJjQVGw_U8lXvFSbLW7cciLhckeo-ypjwuB32lZlQ1yiPhKkf0BkjTCyHxIGWgPullrLxbf_pS81g1DlAEDJ_OopvcGVjSWeVVfPUTxuFC7eykoD_Zk5ADoKR_9QWb6rykEh7OB50l5oPK-E-rJjRCu7E2UCx29FjUrIz443KOWv3_YLOMM_hk9glQA?width=499&height=632&cropmode=none#half" alt="madmen" /><br />
<em>Don Draper on a 1957 Matchless G3LS</em></p>
<p>At the invitation of a friend, I joined this year’s Seattle ride. My experience hosting <a href="http://www.tulipride.org/">the Tulip Ride</a> each April makes me keenly aware of how hard it is to put on a ride like this, and it was exceptionally well-done. It started out at <a href="http://www.thewickmoto.com/">The Wick Moto Café</a> on Queen Anne.</p>
<p><img src="https://ponelg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mFNSjeKog6drs1AX6zXu4Rffbf-mOBWRBGaB5jY0BU0Pjaw8a-rpf1VZn9C5oWmL0iURUUjVKdlSmd3PfalNYM7Mx9FRZZsqWaDSjRgTdBc9Yva8l3imEeqXQ_II0UdbDBORgkxSsIeLTvgucDCl__RJ0kYa5e_Wz_Wb7l03N5ARvd2S7wWWsODWArlMPKqz1DUCPmYafTDcC47U80DbYCQ?width=496&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://poprfa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mDphnA5QFp7uJe_z1g79lgfcBw_84yAz1Gk60e5C_pqfiAwsfb0a8qDAvgpXZ6mwc1oH9OcU2fswAzAxEKvqAT0O5sicSS3sc5bYiPVtxWi8kGgIrxkU7gdY-uCu31zT0hBS7c134yAwwNIpUbW6mlGXgR0nSmgiqYi1aN_WDsKyG_ckSmTS5BZW2XBq_Uw0DRTDKiPTxqQzmqJYnqUQxMw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
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<img src="https://poogiq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mHrDGRrOzzhHgDEFj_J26IJn3Eyjd7bS_-2vDkcmpBTr9VZhaLq1f_Q8_LuoQfLvbAeevcWn45iSYIHWveSU-MrhCgYNS5WDsjsc_z_Hdk5P8Gc8qCaEsLdnMBVMPT9af9YJPuTAaDNcDdoqiJUHrRHsQJJyoQqanFGP3IzfJq08dWRK-x30pW9g7H7EkUPbhqulm520i0QLfCEeouUnA6A?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://poo8cg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mw4am8_UC5wM8ZdG7iJ5CMpmiEJhQKjLkbIWIdfajjdHNGs573FyvwIa7fm4zmW_ONQemw_uvkSLacPvjvukXStwj7T0VGcPL6Bw5eFujC4MXDHIN9I9mvbzKEcliTTDGv2nK5S3QENRNGpnBLxBX1X9YoymYxWPrIVPihVlYKsmVjY7TKNcqVx02APAa4CzgTufDdFFnN-MxDvEMwQ93iw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://cw8v0a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mscCFBPTpL-OIxP_OXYkVu9CacABftoGThxq7Vu5og4Sc8SMAsJTrRXKfnGlR7iwuj6qXnQ1OUxdPZmFG_Yns5g6fOBPHQa63R5xwVMPA6M_aiIN5ed4IAbtt5e6lwokW-cDCY3lVWBLTbAV5NSPP_5hsFC-ODacf1-euSM_1YOaGqLcvRbo1pvcUwa6MvDe6-cQoInPUfpih52SYIK1f6Q?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://cwpwra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mNP-aSqwCbDwgxmaiG92epYjZ7AvtclbKhdnCvsAKna8sncNfPLK3G0mYZ0gBIjeXPeZHE85SVuh_HSg8DRAnJxViTGog5TRF7_VD7HrvYiDNxnJRQxrpTp6CZIjTm6ezyUa3LICpEIrJB-1pHZmA-LfjG1rwPAAT2ZJ_LnxOztOkUn2bK0vJxxIpab9pW6xgOJXp248sluRT3Y69301x_w?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://cwqmlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mdUQP6st2lmrMfksnRV_-KlXiCk4YSe6AbhqA0tTGBvWkAzqHfPbRvQo4wZoc82lpxnAcpibW6M4mokbUu2qw9ks_Ys3LiwfVxJuq_GZWjnvGDsnSMYs5qTv46s6cHGE26bqy4HFVUvKM2LVrQSAkzA9srv6RwEn2wxjoHZ77S7Svdei3tmtA4A6MA2P8cZbv5COBjzLzY_d4T9troTc5ug?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://cw9luq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mNK1h8-ss-_uCmwLTK5mwMt3lLyux343S7Vo9111LMQsiUXwcXRb-lt3bm83GykkIe6yG1EFNTaiNQrcuCt6D1kJSCQVWKpQpip_6SfUgYnao4ff-LXx_NhzDugbV2IQcA4YuQ52jKdSrI7daM6lgqorpv3jpZtT1P8NJCvs4DRjEbBq6Scc-j6CNNwxOchn95gNbq-HeN4HFf1W54NOgYg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://popduq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mia4Nbyd5PYmO69TftclTK5QPTNtBP5T1K769qL5cg-HiKz9DAO7ZkZqz8rn_ZXej60gFU9VYNd5MkAv-CDr_vnEO4WJ6v8XiH984Nw8NS--xUcyuLgCyxH2xhZurk9Seedo-ygeftu0-XGTx_q_c_CNv33qjjSz0b68J8sXnjPQvTgRwqGGnKY1aX7Tvdvrw5_ZsJcaF8QjTSaPMirqVrA?width=335&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" /><img src="https://cwpbog.ch.files.1drv.com/y4medHEeHpY-i0yGFCC2Ng-PyrQS6XCFVPOHCdSL0YrNDxGDzxWwA4oQJc0Hk39vTbS-An04qjAmIayXzgRBUZAm59nsD7BJi7N9FetD9xbFY08wpHFvFLXiFFEgiSKq233aFZmmFwjYuvulkvC7KWnb_dHTikqAFrUaOtftyExQc8dMsEGETqvj2b72k9YOKGDaQb9nWK_00lDxQJBcB-WMw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://cw96ww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mbJlNVSfveiwB-GiZggqEN6Q40kfw2tBFXQ40KUfS0dr8xber9arYmbJloFPQo58PMI93szbx6Mjs9yxdoRPEpM4GxCECL1-1mxlqr1VBJdc8jj4Sr74XGQCU_8OJGBzm-ogM1BmxSewegYJI0L3t7LsMZrOuW5NDzIaGQ35R9TiPExCb1_H6Y2kVegCSVHJpP4-cCA41QtduV_WHNDBhbA?width=335&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://cwp3iw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mNV_0Xdswl2-vdqlWQf6xLtTHT9Y9p1XHnb-gFPaxTBheZqVjVARrTtvFEDuDzQU5p2MJcJYhbbeLw963dN_GU8U6W9ubsFRF9lXk3VQDatdosu9k5V68FsYod2mZFZjVoFO6b29W2XXEjZpUzXaGcdB5PQMT2GTVcb6QdO1bvbGOXU44R0aK-9ppv8gY7LIfHGMWqMX4DVBUQMDBb-BDpg?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="dgr" /></p>
<p>It was a slow ride through Seattle, winding around some of the coolest neighborhoods. The planners did a great job of having directions posted, and well-marked ride coordinators on hand.</p>
<p><img src="https://pomhqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mEaOlfXmedobmmK5TLzZAogLAWrbz_Rd0T7JPUg567ayg7lPYNiylPCKmKBCpJO9tTk1xCSvpqEzyaeMmu-B3uFdeYtlMzhmSj-GAsKvE9i3_8kgf5mh35nqmbq_PAQ3hMHJDG2KO0su5yCGMrNGefS47IMo60xmv87liJpYN5Q5VGXt8hKeKr1TnZSUUm19lnifdcCRZsaVYxMExnHlf3A?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://qfistw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mZooYorK2FxQpFl_t2OOBrT59JSXu7cJCQ19_tnVypRRsyzlfbyBCJLUnxeaCWk8BKK5uYuWv0GqiquSP1BGpvW0F_spJaKa6ejx4LyTQJoiGPcz7nU0EQnPgWWflQYxDeI2TvG31hyzOf_kpLPWFnaMDpAeDcGd-1tHMyRjQ7Z7Ul7kyOj5lsE5gPkIep8rwn3z52KD2zrAMeRvkg8E4lw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://poon0a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mKCtC1MojaDB4EzO2-7ncrbNeQYA-2L6JiF_cVVWt295YXU9jKUUiDeOOv0mcB40IRmGe7RKmRwWDVVhBoe3xqWO8rHGzotflVpTvqgCU5UyHC9sd3NRonGOwzSoIObUBUg-9YY36jjsB2FCynaDSTLHdD7kEX_OGeN9WFNwQZYZEVVK2sT5_sIXdKv5YcZTTbsvOXqVrxNjzBIMLciM55A?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dgr" /></p>
<p>The exact route isn’t made public for safety concerns, but we got to see Greenlake, Lake Washington via Madrona and Leschi. By far my favorite part was riding through the Seattle Arboretum. If you’ve never ridden through on a crisp fall day, it’s about as good as city riding gets.</p>
<p><img src="https://pomorq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mU9YBfgktAKqqlAKy_mGp4JyKGRJQD1WG7lGTSvJyWalUoSI6MoIaiEyHEhcTYKREycX5kHZaZNShW10u20F0nZBTY9XtBZI14FYBc-C6SQNr2gLyAmmYwJ8Ats5B7t3F7PO_SDx6grEWqeRTNL0pRWvfaFrcql6CH7ySs2_Px7xzP-pCUlkYyWhgSiRRX92UabY5UuJfR29azKIlUjRNIA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
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<img src="https://popyww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mQIaSQAI6fuUq2QtrGq6_bPUzx7moC5yyba_69AyL5oNRNpe4L9f0fg5PjYSBXDlbWwef62DVvSnQUXXnfK05QhSJL0EIHjNhIltKko6PitbJ4ZyFIuRtRa8VCorAXKJssOrgaXeO40_j1LCtJWjSPQ868xVkG-4LAj6ZB4M7EJ4XiDgBbtVdT1j2htVMgdoh9zbJRjyjfguqS3SnY2qPdA?width=496&height=660&cropmode=none#whole" alt="dgr" /></p>
<p>The finish point was <a href="http://theshopclubs.com/">The Shop</a> in Seattle, a moto-culture club/restaurant/garage. A fun band called Butt Dial played, beer was drunk, bikes were gawked at, and awards given out for categories riders and rides. We stayed dry right up until the very end, and Mother Nature took over with good ol’ Seattle rain.</p>
<p><img src="https://qfhjfq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mku569Vytloh7ZW7iA7f0bRzdI4aNKaM4UNbeRe980WXbSmL5KmKBjowSJIEEA6sIhj2BfuFRYzKbLEjNaITiA6kFhrwmTFu5B9ylPr6fy1qSPgGvf5FpvVxNLfj4sqoS_45_W4uESaJA3APipJd-COzQ3jkdPE2MtewNvXLypFQ5vNrPbiPZbSmyrtSswoXktI7FbAA4p0nljzAMsDRbZQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
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<img src="https://qfjpiq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mCLxj1o75qOX_YypjRGbgO1HGFzWBiD5vkH8I2zJvXTaCtN4IK-1D2XKDV5ujaJJ07E0lDiM6RIS-6qBP4hTD4UhxcEvaEwSHOk2xcOFv39n4he0oQAj96OBqipgauuBTvqmn9nLOYqyZXtYkdUsMasisZWif0PJE4wbLtyk9zQj6vp2vx2AweeHnSnb9XDbEb6G7p1-qMcZ4GG-cu0Cz1g?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" />
<img src="https://qfg0cw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mzolGfvJ8HhLN3WrRsXwigJJ_SYSa7nbdIFAZg35wWagjNqaWQnY4e-Ey9as2o-XJTgsAEZQji8frnKsZodJh6sk6C4jPd07JV8sbV2ELNmzKLXS8PP9K37cKkgke2U4e09px928ivsQA0gHXWTm_9NPWwUuVX7wrzumeA5frCZDrUZXCwurIAuhthlms2tFg1OvytVq8_bbmgFJUw1o-AQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dgr" /></p>
<p>The real point of the day, in cities all around the world, is raising funds for these important causes. Between the north and south Seattle rides, today brought over 400 registered riders (250 probably turned up) and raised over $35,000. That contributes toward a worldwide event total of over $5.6 million in 2018, and it’s still climbing as cities in remaining time zones wrap up.</p>
<p>For me, the most meaningful people of the 2018 DGR aren’t necessarily riders at all. They’re my friends who took time out of their busy schedule, and funds out of their personal or family budgets, to sponsor me with a donation. With their help, I landed in the top fundraising spot for Seattle.</p>
<p>I can never say thank you enough when friends join me supporting a worthwhile cause. I’ll try anyway. THANK YOU to…</p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Gandhi H.</td>
<td>Julie S.</td>
<td>Mary & Dave H.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Keith M.</td>
<td>Michaelanne & Marvin L.</td>
<td>Stacey M.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>The Koffman Family</td>
<td>Kandie D.</td>
<td>Simon M.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Chris E.</td>
<td>Paul L.</td>
<td>Jonathan & Patricia C.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Walter & Bita S.</td>
<td>Kurt R.</td>
<td>Scott S.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mike P.</td>
<td>Katy K.</td>
<td>Aileen O.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Miko S.</td>
<td>Evelien & Dorien V.</td>
<td>William & Megan C.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>David and Janet B.</td>
<td>Andrew M. & Michelle D.</td>
<td>Dave B.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Michael C.</td>
<td>Don B.</td>
<td>Steve H.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Harjit S.</td>
<td>John A.</td>
<td>Jeff M.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Marty W.</td>
<td>Krista B.</td>
<td>Greg & Lorien F.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Without generous friends, the impact of these events would be only a tiny fraction of what we saw today. Thank you again to these sponsors and to all of the volunteers who make DGR a success.</p>
<p>I’ll be back next year, as it’s nice to join a charity ride without having to do all of the planning. Today, I was just along for the ride, figuratively and literally. Next stop, <a href="http://www.tulipride.org/">the Tulip Ride</a> in April!</p>Jeff HenshawThe Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride is a global-scale charity motorcycle ride that takes place around the world each September. Benefiting men’s mental health and prostate cancer research, it involves over 112,000 riders in 600 cities and 92 countries. The ride raises about $6,000,000 for important charities.Yosemite, Death Valley, Tahoe, and Lassen Volcanic2017-09-16T00:00:00-07:002017-09-16T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/deathvalley<p>Early September rides are becoming a tradition. It’s a perfect time of year when it’s still mostly sunny, warm enough for lightweight gear, but there is a little bit of fall in the air as leaves begin to change color. This year, I got in a ride with a couple of buddies that featured some of the best riding that the Sierra Nevada Mountains and surrounding country have to offer.</p>
<hr />
<h2 id="planning">Planning</h2>
<p>On the heels of a <a href="/september-loop-in-the-pacific-northwest/">great September ride last year,</a> my buddy Greg and I started talking about a similar ride in 2017. Greg was keen on seeing Death Valley, and I had never been to Yosemite before. These two national parks are basically adjacent, and any national park makes for a great ride.</p>
<p><img src="https://qfgf0q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mRwpGl4dGL1TcYH2jxQ3Wcg8LnDvK5bbgR0oYlSg-i6KvLeVyQ8Bx0HFQOHiITtgpy5Xw502BQy1EDiBIP-M_3HHAjFppueIrOithDGzcymsGp8LkOAdtyBqAS5XSfGOKCqyAENqpTRJnTyJ9TogJLpUn1xju3jnAgwFVMdiK9Ca2A0yfq2EnKxDolwl63f3uWLPz8NOPJB3e0wkQXfvDOQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none" alt="planning" />
<em>Mapping potential routes before distance and time realities took effect</em></p>
<p>We met to talk about routes, and found that a Yosemite and Death Valley ride could easily be extended north, into the Sierra Nevada mountains. Everything from desert to mountain riding was an option.</p>
<p>We opted to stay to the west, as the mountains and rivers and lakes provide great variety in roads and scenery. This meant we’d see Lake Tahoe, the Lassen Volcanic National Park (another NP!), Crater Lake (another NP!), and more. It was looking like an amazing ride that could be done comfortably in two weeks. The name of the online route map that we collaborated on was, <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WgW7TPevUFpurpKwCdy_p0fhj8c&usp=sharing#whole">“Death Valley and Beyond.”</a></p>
<p><img src="https://3gw6wg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mSmQNVhnq3Uf-CfZdwMFmjI4bxkO0lCZrlxeRgnAouofGUxKnEDSCoEK1FRzdarVvk6MCUbcx9Gec-i8oYSIXp3k59-IoK6EtK2_BuWN-wUhtCvTB6lW11ZW-2dkDHAAouo75YQAzT8IusZyvhcdNloFXCs7NILuIWVSVro_y0UfyRSU1RaAFFGR0MMuMx3MuwJ8tU-aN9RYoEoQAc01HvQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="hauling" />
<em>They did a good, but not great, job of transporting our bikes to CA.</em></p>
<p>The big problem: we only had a week. Work is very busy for me right now, and I couldn’t get away long enough to do this kind of loop. So we made a decision to ship the bikes, something neither of us had done before. Despite my reservations, I shopped and found Federal Motorcycle Transport. They were just okay. Not linking to them because I can’t give them a full recommendation. They were on time with pickup and delivery, but one of my turn signals had been dislodged during unloading, they’re just a shell for regional carriers, and they used the luggage on the bikes to move them around (something a serious bike shipper would never do).</p>
<p>Our flight landed in Sacramento mid-afternoon, and we Lyfted to the shop to collect our bikes.</p>
<p><img src="https://3gzvzg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mXKBwHdA8ivoLVt_8F329DqBNEoHimZnbh3Ly_-lxYRfvPMNxIvI7lGdO79U-Q8qzZysMJb5uwYwAMCvI-ZenDPcn8d7Zi-H5MKPrr7t1We_dB7ObJJNDmTX8EBlkdUBpN5LSBc5zPZMQJZ1ksxOoSD2LsYLYETyaQ3pEzggClYtvKPghB9p-qOf79BQxBu2nbYNf1-W5dheZeMXzjm-NtQ?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="unloading" /></p>
<p>Both my R1200GS and Greg’s R1200RT were delivered to <a href="http://www.aspowersports.com/">A & S Motorcycles</a> in Roseville, California. They get an enthusiastic recommendation! They received the bikes, fixed the turn signal, trickle-charged them, checked our tire pressure, and stored them inside! They only charge an hour of service for this. Best of all, the people there really love riding. They aren’t just there to sell bikes and gear — they are excited to support riders on adventures like ours. Their collection of vintage BMWs is cool, too.</p>
<p><img src="https://3gymla.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mO-ufK3ZszDrkkSPlYgT2IRJ6o2lY9dyPM6qWWQtU-yCAFxu5HMSsatS4aPZanPJ4i-hKtkWisFYseGdgL2LGo_VA2fWfJNVO5InCoqLyU5xpfMJ-TABYE9Ei2PuqpETim4wbS3dd1ZwfqKNCr4LLIzZm2GCXJoWNrdNcK7ALjg0HLmIs1XsV3EZKDO7LBqYNcSsG74ypuFNlW7l9JXEpdg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="vintage" />
<img src="https://3gwlua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mso044BYtaZyS_VGH2VhnE07YaVfBWaDW02XfrmpZWhUCget_SprplUgnArcd3RjYJ9VRwILjs8qMA99i0hk-x3j45Il3tTF5gLTDtNs8zTQb9zsPbYctveY0pIjL4NIdRleYhURUSNoeMp9Q5pelGEPL89es9D4-zMNDgglovm91U7QRtVOYN7uhjTjc4rnlGwGczmRe3HIgWN9TBgoYSQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="vintage" />
<img src="https://3gxwqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mNV1hQU9dmFDgyDB789aW1KU0EaC0GnGLWZBL-JIDoGqEsILR4REcw-8HZoADvDEhKrg0yB430UjY3QSIrYspz3waTgvngLmHBCFBRxTEdH1ECafhIuSqbxF8kQUKYcxI3GyN1xXsVOdE1qsKLEUphwUEv1svX_PAXei7YPJp0ycByMX1YIm6jqMwfI9_YxAJcmCQkVe29nLNJCTro458Yw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="vintage" /></p>
<p>We stayed in Roseville that night at the <a href="http://www.orchidsuitesroseville.com/">Best Western Plus Orchid Hotel & Suites.</a> Its standard fare for an interstate hotel. There was no charge for the cockroach on my pillow. Nor was there a charge for two drinks at their depressing bar, which is a pair of converted hotel rooms in a dim back courtyard. Dinner at a Belgian-influenced brewery/restaurant called <a href="http://monkscellar.com/">The Monk’s Cellar</a> was great, and gets a recommendation.</p>
<p>Later that evening, our third rider showed up: Walter on his R1200RT! Walter and I have done may rides together, including <a href="/europe-ride-2016/">Europe last year</a> and a <a href="/oregon-coast-giant-redwoods-and-crater-lake/">Giant Redwoods ride</a> before that. Walter lives in San Francisco now, and rode over after work to join us for a couple of days.</p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-1-yosemite-national-park-353-miles">Day 1: Yosemite National Park (353 miles)</h2>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1CYZ2HNhMdMskM79I-gVAYFZZfeQ&hl=en_US" width="720" height="480"></iframe>
<p>Waking up in Roseville marked the official beginning of our ride. Heading south on CA-49 took us directly into wine country. Starting a ride off on twisty roads under California sunny skies was ideal.</p>
<p>With Walter along, it was guaranteed that we’d take some pleasantly unexpected detours. The first one happened early: a detour to Columbia, a preserved, working old-west town. It’s a fantastic place with a working blacksmith, a few restaurants, and an interesting museum.</p>
<p><img src="https://3gytcw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mCeZ9NJgTRcXcTv_wCyw-V2pAVo2-IOei0G-5CgurHbNuHMG6r1_aQflRHkjD8tT5CmoAV12ctVc4jQSxG9_u65utpUdH8UNFD-2w_H5RRa9XmvEOxtGx6IF9i24Wb1q4qRla6z2t45ZZGLdrfKd3E8bIaWXNp_3-iQW3_bIJjqo88Hdh53iOEVZsaiqkZF9yhs9Bz0p7VIO-tJaTNZtQWA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Columbia" />
<img src="https://3gx3ig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mEI4TFkNNowGmCZ98k1MuQYfdspa-kA-NUvhm31spU2axrv9ileRPokg7fAwK6PZshVR_iqPOYVfww-TbmulHxTdVQwxJwTWB0r0ZA6xXBHbls6WR6wbusdmK9ymTB46HbmHOSyKOee2vmXFMBcptBbDbWQ6v8799tLi5t-An-etCQA48CEe_tU9HBoklASxwngwqOrSHFwYpY9gqZELtdQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Columbia" />
<img src="https://3gwsqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mdCN87BiqgnHkCmCTtgKR-yfUZAYUb5tDpQ7tcfRsWwsSDBaoSM7crr0r4BCH_xB6_M4JKWiXEJEjnYonYbU_oNr0bOCAjqlC0WKEP7rj7chkWoLZ8aAl6rLTqMECpdSvQQJLtVdqtKONTL9-QVp6Ab7Zrz6Wo4APQxFux7Toh423GWcpSf0UoCpD-M2VYk2wQymVKlQAGp7dXX1YK5DS8g?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="Columbia" />
<img src="https://3gzcfq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mm7Xq5xYwmgIFKyiB0GDiKIHJ3u-Bx6WPLTakqIjZvZyPTnNId43qNT_zwwIE79uabnN3yLfmO-mr6C1FTckbjbOW4ztqlfiUGvqd3iYAHB4l-QfDQxsuhcwjjpLYrKrgX_EcvxL72M9kaD7hYODd3FWYAHI1m6rEDFJGT6Gjo2eJITgqIA3Kv18pOdWc31RL1FIa5Bxt_UplzyxglBz4kA?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="Columbia" /></p>
<p>While we had coffee at a local shop, we decided to have sandwiches wrapped up to go, hoping to find a scenic spot in Yosemite for lunch. We rode into the hills toward the park and encountered a lot of wildfire smoke, which persisted for the rest of the day.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, the smoke occluded many of the spectacular views in Yosemite Valley, but it was still a beautiful place to ride:</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/taYiZILTcyA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>Lunch was on the banks of the Merced River on the valley floor. It was not a bad spot at all!</p>
<p><img src="https://dphoqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mo7lTjUAVSq8WEf2tCAtVzI0JE_dS6hHjcETJz6kWQdJqng8HzTpGjMvStjR7UtKnPlACIQ6l8Q4pG9SLp9J6Nl5eneKWoLQqKxjhdGS13MijZrhnKbf_Jmylsx74M_sYi1Q6INLW64UUuW0X9we4TKt_BrGD2tHnS_ggc6hrN51QkFFsnvKh8iX5J-coGa3-PO6aj_rP07jz6tjYKo0CVQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Yosemite" />
<img src="https://dpf8cq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mxUv1XCkeXhJPdABN7Cg0noAWyBewvkLHgVjjrgU5vSzLPRoVEpSf7URJymge1AmXjQXGewsNDzuInkpzNthCxxcPMfc6MIjBzVAgkbVv4t79q5Yk5CJuBfQJWfkTUsOL5fW15M0tCnr3EWLhIsekzkP7nWPw40MUVYOkcZ-fDBvf-uAkCmyQ4TEx_zvSrz9rvwz4FerihoylGpr0UHvDbw?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="Yosemite" />
<img src="https://dpfnzw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mAMof223AJ1YkO9-72kpUS_dRrChMKZpm16BEsm6yeLg4v2JeHGKSU6_WcytfDdb4yUKdqlmAq1fjyRD98Cd5QKPky9yk0DuaUMh06gPtFYvz3jnQOJaYXw55N0pkhWBS6sPIKu5Ma3hnb34M9lrQ-F9gz03Y9E5OLB4J8S3s2GaNfO4CEJfQ44Dn9vsdwd_GwM7CBP34h_QZ3piju6YEbg?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="Yosemite" />
<img src="https://dpex5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mLGYMiNiwGaaDT2JJ7Z5CiHpS1XBcME6ZXplHquCZZE3LWzHOTMgmwXw4B61h2IU0ZM3lVWvjEVROQzubZiWp5XzN2sjKIo1ttLCgtsApMU9gJXaxlScLq1SeCGeJvY7W2vx75pP-x3r30RLZi3ZNRsADNMFjJZknJNgWCfXimBaJGu__zb2NPfzF8rbZ5C7-SOOBJrTlKQLt4BMaW1QZGQ?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Yosemite" />
<img src="https://dphhqa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4maGbEDjPJHKj-pHge-36TfFTyMIuy6cN7C3EFq4P5su3teyf0C7r7WMing2mKYScc2qM4AYQBGAvoG-ub_LBgVwIzQuHGK3Q3PH5FX_MC8b7erJ30cVBKbJVmqT9E3aKbXTLMA9A8jbX5Hv1E7Wwf1UW0J1ac9qJShMiC8gfF3wMqMEL-8ks9xWtz7oims4h4qkCJfa-sSHFudazO5zy4AQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Yosemite" />
<img src="https://dpgywg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mIWOeIJk_0gfSJyOyjEgjWGDzjNj5h3jfi6ukpv7g5-Hu_EQiTTvWn6Y94JvYLw8y-3M3NQ8xUXnm66XVzNDiqqsBtpSLMoKEZI9stYdfhlhcGNCbCsljhFDStgaiXyaKnOMacGqlyZy0uR2oAvwitj4kIusbqETtHMlBFxvcw94daTmBk4HTfHKAGlQRiMEi6svX8LAHENly2liss5nq5Q?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Yosemite" /></p>
<p>Except for the smoke, this was about as nice a picnic lunch as one could imagine. It seemed like the perfect warm day as we rode out of the valley and began our ascent toward Tioga Pass. As we climbed, things turned quickly: clouds rolled in, on/off drizzle began, and before long we were riding through a full on downpour of cold rain and eventually hail. It broke on our descent, and we got some nice views when we stopped for coffee to warm up.</p>
<p><img src="https://dpgdua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m6eeEsk0vJ1_Z6KugdDwMilDpEQab8Hkt-PnRhs_Cne4yREGBrRAwrNbxaav9PAsQ981IiplqfDd2-oxapHLjYd-ZldmNWndJmRg2peswrlsf9OVxLEWcX8uK9Dzkn4je7YAsMR82G0FyLrPifqdzaTakx9x6dXaRqmlQlBA7NyNO0jAE-zFkokBNsAp178vFttTsKVVdlx_tFguU1oWQuw?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Yosemite" /></p>
<p>Our destination that night was Independence, CA at the <a href="http://mtwilliamsonmotel.com/">Mt. Williamson Motel and Base Camp.</a> This was by far the neatest place we stayed. Each guest gets a small cabin, which is furnished like being at home. The folks that run the motel also help hikers with resupply. They’re really into the outdoors, and it shows by how much they love talking to guests and sharing the stories of how they pick up hikers, have their pre-shipped resupplies ready, and get them back on their hikes.</p>
<p><img src="https://dpeelq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mvsT--pErixaqitflVNyFsBwoVd6Qb01yNavlmcgAG8oxK-nXXYwWEZVTsLIYARCwEoreiAHX6T9mSIAun8_JtgW1wpj07YnymRK1F474NHttvX47J8NSfeuxkvx2mjftJbID_UMR_g3gTCMzgPzqYiQIYBGisKYIvRjhNMx0rhpSwZEqE_9ZUHKr71thNG8-BJogPP_FeU9i4wG5MDs1lw?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="mtwilliamson" />
<img src="https://dpg5oq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m14us9tHORJYqEye2iEB4uAg-Jefr4PUQLFNDefZPOEM-J36oNFTzBnHCue54GzG9JkO6fYwlbwuTEcqK4vc9LgaqQCyEBd_RgqEmYxREsoLfyFfQ944yZrmqb5TDeyXwVATm1Icm9z7rfJRCGndcWsHzzz66CNuDMIbM88olUw6BozZsFZkgN_LauBy2RJiOLoNCsNTJDClKlCIfztZm-w?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="mtwilliamson" /></p>
<p>Our first full day of riding ended with bugs on the visor, and bikes parked in front of cabins. We dined at the Still Life Cafe in town, which was superb. Great burgers and salads, and a friendly dog named Carlos who greets every party and continually makes the rounds to tables while dinner is prepared.</p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-2-death-valley-303-miles">Day 2: Death Valley (303 miles)</h2>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1lc5pN1w3H6QaiCF_EEEPeHCdWns&hl=en_US" width="720" height="480"></iframe>
<p>Breakfast at the Mt. Williamson Motel isn’t like the industrial buffets at a chain. Very nice local folks ask you how you want your eggs, and serve you in their dining room with homemade jam on the toast.</p>
<p>Sadly, duty called Walter back to work, so we only got a few morning miles in before he headed west and Greg and I rode east. The sunrise on the Sierra Nevadas was beautiful as we packed the panniers up.</p>
<p><img src="https://elajnw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mxd-wd0LGw7VV42XlS3kIWl2EH_G2gfodB2YepX8vefdLTkaaaGM9WLGM1s7hb4eMyhFhTC4QHoAo9Li8qTPiQiDfgqbDhVbZSxh8MrC7KwbQUpTQYHflZID77bPPu51z0wTmqvWgGQ1_Up0sytb0L5JCREipKV7j_pj8ldo2FVc_wx5WNt9Q1NRiDPsQ6oFnHoMSpB-0C3AEx4vrZc7Qwg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="mtwilliamson" />
<img src="https://dpfufg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mR9dgq3SgYMflPVTsNnzp73mW6oWLcCPAUda52rdUjIU0ie_F8C1DkH4s86xPYEZS5UMMFQJyJLFGttShUSTbV5S0_HMGoNSwQ9hF7FbSBHETQK3qwuUIQkYamsNDPnMOOc8z4z-jIIdDvwTLwfyoOqitZoVOEw_lip8Nmmvz6-C7a2Di-ljjcoq4gmsKGS3BGLAewHQQLuv10OXEf_6www?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="mtwilliamson" /></p>
<p>Walter ducked into the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/manz/index.htm">Manzanar Relocation Camp</a> on his way back, and it looks like a very interesting and humbling place to visit. Meanwhile, Greg and I rode east toward legendary Death Valley.</p>
<p>Death Valley is a place to be taken seriously. It’s one of the hottest places on earth. For decades, the park was closed during summer due to people hiking in, unprepared, and perishing. It’s also the lowest point in North America, bottoming out at 282 feet below sea level at Badwater Basin. The valley has a nasty reputation for overheating engines and stranding tourists. Highway signs implore you to turn off your car’s air conditioning to prevent overheating. There is comparatively little life there, though we did see an unhappy coyote. The ambient temperature and negative elevation reading from the screen on my GPS tells the story of this place:</p>
<p><img src="https://elykfa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mJReiAyMaFGQ07HUmwzXYlJrpkeM_fY-xExHcSpDu_iKJUlWlkaFilxECO8qrKymZbuGyMH4meL7ULAcWzsAjnE4f0DMItRtF6Ueh8Tj93LU2Z_cCVHtttkJYzVeNNZxng6ExCumUlC_jKo4TYAU3IvPhk0jtuh1alITXN9kpchpTJfpAV8AZgJRSDtTtjIeDlJKE3uUfSLBO2uYiKdosTg?width=800&height=480&cropmode=none#whole" alt="gps" /></p>
<p>Riding in was really fun. The road dips and crests across the terrain in stretches called “rollercoasters.” They’re fun on bikes. But the green scrub-land starts to quickly change as you hit the canyons that carry you down to the valley floor. Everything dries up and looks lifeless. It begins to feel <em>otherworldly…</em></p>
<p><img src="https://elyrww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m2NcHNAzmItESuaRKrCLZR92qmTt8yFBw7KYzSedfvOPeTNNvkwYx_R8AMwH-0D72YeUpAE5a-efdtzsWlMw2N-9NdNChtIsTExDzDDeSVeTaK7IOOmG9A03JOj4q21FgMacMe0nbeMNdcD3ZN7BTnyOzbWbS9sEVZXigTyw05S9LJP2ktSHsKTV23RFlLFmB4Q7zdUP9TKU1oZB-GRBAJg?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="deathvalley" />
<img src="https://elaq5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mu1iUYAaLD5P5IZg5bAjBR-yOe9xjrXet7ZlJNzVghQePl9p_yWATz3OF1Ldc9zTdo_9jXr-UAQobwP51-fpsK_6tusRmlILjRrnX8jLDKvflBx4X68WrUkH5GOkrIylrL-Ifp5h5UiVUrC-X210tFRcX_IOmALcTX9gT82fWkkuGW_SMrb98UiZ-K0qaRIOvo82-VgKRVrTglOHMAyD_Ug?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="deathvalley" />
<img src="https://elb1cq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mERPcnwTG2zRMp7FRyyqU_ow23xt0LkQqsSeQ4U5UyPWjTb7dluA-WG4Yy7tSZ76KpFmFde2xGn2rz2IsOu-IjBdROcDoyU07UndWesN7jYylR0naENtk40gfGpA2RMYFUjznBlqBdcH1dppTod3V30FTT2r-qXrfjzITebocCdr19JLer6BRVqciHFqb9nP51JrEHn22kZXRwGMNWuAHmw?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none#whole" alt="deathvalley" />
<img src="https://elbgzw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mU9Hij_uAZf51Jy4hpNIUSsjrcnQEy0rT_fMECepNCo3a26nWbgSLirP3uvZUoOSFsLhYXzLlfLywYm7nLmdXO7Vq2ewgHZI0M4a8PE9TmI2fFbVrz6p6AaYcQahW_bcKZeeiukU7Cn-diGhw7cpxhwqULTd1g9boVzJwW1pqedhf5kZRQRfCLC2_jnsnhHw3P5PVR1G7YZIw2wGzKFUViA?width=1024&height=682&cropmode=none#whole" alt="deathvalley" /><img src="https://elzaqq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m4CAWnJdNdklyZQzAH3z8vGo6AWovfy4DonsqZu001AR2AcOPlOR10QNYCHUCDw8pJ4VqJFwhV-07uuGvkGwp8m_KlL4fV42v1OIt4S2JyPMUzXPN1gR--IUScIiEFVV48QqFyNAOQXqlMsAiRykcxpQZZH51ml3_5J0yCtxFPT3LGQ45eXuGhWtDTNglDGczHGbCvcLOUl_ZnocEieI2YA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="deathvalley" />
<img src="https://elaqia.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mjy5TAQDMY5pJPlXmStNw2jBRS620S3Ccr18lVZS08FZJsYvCFjlJAMzCdcEhR6LmGkcBl48QdN9b1wklcRfqRcqbt_Z_T4wsN2xInAFOjVIpBt2gYpbgpNsmUwV4DI0DwBAWL0maQKFVEMtiGFK0Y7917qbK-DA5grP8Fy1mNWeBhLlHPHf2Kx-62O5o1T-NWDx_iqruybBLaVszbgkk4Q?width=1024&height=682&cropmode=none#half" alt="deathvalley" /></p>
<p>If you look closely at that last photo, you’ll notice a jet fighter showing its belly during a practice strafing run. This happened a few times and I got just a bit of video, along with the changes in rock as you drop elevation.</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rnqcniVPbD4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>The valley floor is a strange place. There’s a combination National Park facility to pay entry fees and tourist snack and souvenir stop where we paused to hydrate. Every other group there was international: France, Spain, Australia, Germany, Italy and more. It was fun to talk to people who were excited — and frightened — to see that we were riding motorcycles beyond that point. We had evaporative cooling vests on (credit to Greg) that helped cool a bit, but in 115° heat, it only goes so far. Opening a visor usually helps cool your helmet with airflow; not in Death Valley. It’s a blast of furnace-hot air that forces you to ride visor-down.</p>
<p>There was no stopping here, as it was almost spooky. Very few people pass by on the road, and almost nobody gets out of their car in the afternoon heat. We kept riding until we ascended the far hills, exited the park, and hit Death Valley Junction.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcrltg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mfLW2AZ8dkGtpPOrwLt1ZD0CjqjydnUDQf85S2y4CXSUaS_BO6GVeqPcaKdOl6QaaQ3HQTl6ABZsZoEcxaqKKtIU9iSqQgRIVslw0ZksbdCyLE0QDkkhWA16TRxUx87GfOpxvKJ3d5s6Qj52w3RBEFbRfBAMJVERAtiWJe42ZquALvmC_ED9HGUPuGAXhkoCXCG4R-RUFhilEvaHMNCYBKA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dvjunction" />
<img src="https://elzhra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mfVhwcZDn_A2jFF1xZihfEI6gE2aXVy4dvDpWlZkYzpGUrpTHEHGqxYuooCyr6GP6DmYF0spcgIfIDvzEoaJ7cKyPxdjZ6dNwva2GN274IXVzYB69ol0D5g0TSKdQi_n-uwa7_mnvt1lv1SkQqD-qakZskYbpFBsIGAHAR4wkrztv3B2_To81tQ9wRYkul3a6zbAO7IxfBk15HiaYBMDRWA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dvjunction" />
<img src="https://rcowqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mX4DSV8WdNeYNdTX4SGRoP_OeW41YYpHSdcjyndKO9bOsnZ6jffacRE3_W_lxQiLoUSt97yMh-r6xgeRA0Eow_SJ3HZSRQS0pe9bpfWhH6F7KXcgnXcdGNpmxoLa53SJnSrqNmTao3FRcby51DOJaX2erAHkWJ7CvQAZrhrvjmPQo-N-z8XKWX_FcWr0yqa_gahWGqRBfxLIiWDw3EdLI6A?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="dvjunction" />
<img src="https://elb8ua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m0WMGjykZzssylFbtii0KsmKLnvvguFYoqunRUWI5e4g7sU5pzIN0ZTFgoNDkYYy-A-aZ1tXO_LBmxzhTCYvybCsMY7hpJ0eSxteLU1av6cg-o-bYbPQJx7UrJGrWk4yjkfWsJzxZS8q5BJ-i2IrwLWW6H6ywqArlT_rAcPqCuHC44mIZQh1BjhNNrI0rP9DQbFZVrbq80yT9TG0Qv3fHOA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="dvjunction" /></p>
<p>We had another 150 miles of riding to get to Tonopah, NV for our next night’s accommodations. The ride up took us through some towns that had seen better days. The desert country is a largely conservative place. We were far from the Seattle.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcqcfa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mNtWnG-sL2CznuBiAa3g8WThrPHFubMuzozDIhaRTqFhJlSFR9skpbTGFsOUBcMucUdfiBHH-U6PAkZvl8pxSAQ4wbNjPOjmkMK5YSxlWKZOjGvVzStL-ljpDPpAj3ObrpKsz3zWqIHMOxqA2omQBZspR5Netoe7sTdT9NCfNbpuH8ekXhnuFPhOnIFes4fL4meeRRlh-L2sJYCygh88gYg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Tonopah" />
<img src="https://rcoboa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mMJrQEbMnMCjWTAZULuwtz4OIFP32hfledExe0yBp3KSOO0GXvfGLU-1cUYIQHHYwuvwZsEKb3azU03r8IOXDq9B7eYtYMQd_Whfn1zPEcpVoyG3KpkcbUH9hO_FknMJFOZJeMxvKjm3SZM5pgORdHOdCEKxBRtXBsnJB5PEDr5r_q8I5Vs8ULoBUFwTVoyAA2Vn5Nh2HttxC1YVo5XreDQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Tonopah" /></p>
<p>It was good to have a pool at our hotel that night. After riding through Death Valley, a cool swim was perfect.</p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-3-lake-tahoe-359-miles">Day 3: Lake Tahoe (359 Miles)</h2>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1QQpR09fcNiBDn5xG3xD7IA6_Pho&hl=en_US" width="720" height="480"></iframe>
<p>As we were loading up the bikes after breakfast, an enthusiastic local rider approached us to talk about the bikes and where we were riding. He was touring around in a car with his wife, but spent a lot of time on a motorcycle in the area. As we told him about our planned route, he suggested heading further west and riding up through the Mono Lake Tufa area instead of more desert directly to the north, as we had planned. We didn’t take much convincing, and an hour later we were pleasantly off of our planned course.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcrsqq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mxfiTTpRT-TGTIccDzsgzRdYF_kH0svjUXyH4vN__cBxZ6JhbcMaKOwJUXDGUIWIVx5GZbQYOe60Z3qq_wqSiDgZlbLV89-d8lkqc0OFVsUHw8xvAV6Kve-HleQDrKxKetS5dilQXoaOmaHT4RGgutLx789ewiq8eQphtbSMTIYd8a3VdFKeUNBf7vTEQEZPEhsMp3i42PDI-jWzfU_0uwA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="MonoLake" />
<img src="https://rco3iq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m0cXKYYFpoDbhxXollGEjsWOfDkpehCHboZ8kTNvS5J_3TmPqdnNl6by-uRnRQO2_rnpElQsk1F7cR2r_FemCLYG72SxRYC4244Jep7k4K3nMvs_jVG-2ogzjlYY1ytNBUcV7kB8SQGudkASoEDbshA6laF9nHqqYlXWGjKH30fcWJyOnxAn_WtbNbejEO6BlHlVmRvbzGqnMZLoo5KIrYQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="MonoLake" />
<img src="https://rcpmkw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mAXIi5U9O6Rb8pd7R9Bzx-0LEWAMsGsTFkiix-KkMv1-qGXGTWJtxaW4o07JZtizpOqC-UoFsP_nhBy343YvBelsH2IsAhpr0mK4AZlYbC9VuLDYR5KgbGGC_Mavlp67QZl_Brhh3bWA1v7X6Q7VmB0vnjsQx2COnGFmLO-6kSxEOk2r12UM7mzER6AOAj80XwAd4ruYIB6p0yLwYmrf5NQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="MonoLake" /></p>
<p>Those mountains marked our climb back west, heading up toward Lake Tahoe. If you ever ride this route, you’ll be temped to stop in to a local café called Benton Station. It’s a converted gas station that looks like a great place for riders to stop. But… don’t. Do yourself a favor and avoid the angry wait staff and bad food.</p>
<p>The stretch of CA-120 (Mono Lake Basin Rd) around Mono Lake and Paoha Island were spectacular. This video can’t do it justice. As usual, the local recommendations trump any planned routes.</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XCi1WRFTr0Y" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p>About this time, I was getting frequent texts from home about thunderstorms in the Tahoe area where we were headed. Not just a chance of a passing storm, but “SEVERE LIGHTNING — PENNY SIZED HAIL — TAKE COVER INDOORS” type of alerts. About 30 minutes out of Tahoe, in 80° sunshine, I geared up in full rain slicks. Sure enough, it hammered down on us. We got into South Tahoe in a downpour with near-constant thunder cracking. We took shelter in a pub while it blew over.</p>
<p>What should have been a picturesque ride up the west short of Lake Tahoe was a cold, cloudy, trafficked slog to the next hotel in Quincy, CA.</p>
<p><img src="https://orgecw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mNyaUgjQvjrLvwUB5xDH4679Zqai2sh19RWt4JhKjMlklv6-rEhke7acdl_TqIq1go9mN3y9Jb364i_4_y9dXdeh3YNG7HbaU8yvnA8K78n8vEumMmq3ZzK5M7xW_Y26Qk8-V4x8vhLx0ABu_JyLc21s4s2B8qmalHcWE1V4bfrkaWcMPMhIE4cVLKlCxXJqv1hTRHJJceimZXnfA-jhISg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Tahoe" />
<img src="https://orhpqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4maw7k2Qgeg1KgtcW5uf4g690x7id5yi4x0YxLJyUUajM6Rm3_O6bnll-nOh9eHossY-5l4F4bTINJ4pb-p2k8DBU35LrvULjbXHtyO_V8P-MJXPAwJihJKq_hRnb6bAmSd56ACV4oc3mjOdNCrSSWKQN-PSSXeBIFgWs_7_p5C1LdBT3CHYDYKmvTp_RUY0i3O94lBGmEoLhyDrhPKIE--A?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Tahoe" /></p>
<p>Any motorcyclist who has endured a stretch of unexpectedly cold, wet, dark riding know what a joy it is to see blue skies and sunshine appear on the horizon. This was that moment of joy, about half an hour out at the end of day three.</p>
<p><img src="https://rcqjww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mJe8p6ElixPT2ybeo5oZdeQD0ApUQ7fiHKEDSvQn68q-LidEzi5dlJpQAsuCd3y7CJ_33W2PbrIDAACwHRQiZDGJwIfHdWmc2P7hjbS7a1qpUrBfyjWuafG2gEMMmQwI3MfGf-OVVmfBJIzYDjPPrGwuchGvh2tFxV1B1USWwB5kvwMLm9zJM2kphwfxkcw8wZk0IFT3inGFwgbIQB0ZimA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Tahoe" />
<img src="https://orfoig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mYb2aWr9mvmQYfOk1qpdwBRHVrbGGIhwNS-jkMPp64-5NKGW1b-V2k-j1l9purKJtCXpag1DWdTEDUdjjSdscRzfr7tQ8wjU0185cPGGWYM-9pVimXasYNJ-SqzEjHJ7hHX1vcsIEy9FSs8XLe2h-21JCzr2OzASJJJqOLyvrtHYj08Pc4pyV_vgZwbKrCDT7_ffPytDIXDkRxBK8reJbaw?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="Tahoe" />
<img src="https://rcoi5w.ch.files.1drv.com/y4minMhiclX5VMLHxwzYhke3R8YweBiC4N7_0qbmmJsUOxX6RZH8RzqdZ6N6MmFIYIzTQYaC84TaamGCnUmBrNyUeprGu65_n_d1KIsdyOkpOQ5hcd3IXDCJf7StNskuZ2a0pIrnVyNcikqfVWNX6QdBwsYGhM0768zptz996tZnT__GNd35cA19_6Q28Meio-5WzMQw3XDbYkMqh8OJ3vGnw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Tahoe" /></p>
<p>We stayed in Quincy, CA at the <a href="https://ranchitomotel.com/">Ranchito Motel,</a> which was perfectly nice for riders and quite economical. Not knowing that a the very nice town on Quincy was still a mile and a half down the road, we walked to get dinner nearby as places were closing. Bad Chinese to-go was our only option, but we were tired anyway and the cold beer tasted good as we drank it on our cabins’ front porch.</p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-4-lassen-volcanic-national-park-296-miles">Day 4: Lassen Volcanic National Park (296 miles)</h2>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1e9cQO4smvf3cihhq8O-qHi6_Mvs&hl=en_US" width="720" height="480"></iframe>
<p>Morning in Quincy brought blue skies, warmer temperatures, and really clean mountain air. We rode into town to find it full of great places to get coffee, food, and fuel. Greg picked a place called Morning Thunder Café, which turned out to be the best breakfast of the trip. Thunder Café was full of other motorcyclists (including a pack from our motel), and they had great coffee and traditional breakfast fare. If you make it to Morning Thunder, have the signature “TC Egg” dish: ham, avacado, egg, and melted swiss over a toasted bagel.</p>
<p><img src="https://oref6a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mkWRMuc7Y-dZwTOATX0VgnTC4iAu3pIA4_nxvivsHeHjSMhmX4TZuMlMRtV0fXERJo0so8aWk2DpoYjQ-ZVSVE5bJrCLTUBw9U1p2s6JRsxzIJs38YsblwUC7TK5FxDeUbyMQbTMBUT7oB7qJvxcDVf8VWFsJPotz3AgsSiaDOZ_yq6bTFt-tAy3G_wQX8aRAYGfz2Dw3hCIvDQyuCdyuAg?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="QuincyCA" />
<img src="https://org6xa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m5fJYrWRAqRUZIzETIO9R2RxpEjXfPN9oZ9tYxHu9qK0FGIj8mS7dCwPggR55UmqPGUNThB0ezfDOue0irLTKByklgqF128rzgVWX_H3cHr_DJXrAfyfz4PAMdjMfzZmBFxh1qQ49cX9tsJsWBzilqnlY3mHwnMPEFlYLa5QfI7sIGPlkY0Ku3m_4ZRK-M79BI-3iJZ9DZZP9hKyaPNaz9A?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="QuincyCA" /></p>
<p>Our next stop was the Lassen Volcanic National Park, an incredible dormant volcano that has left a series of calderas across the landscape. Lakes have formed in some, and the views throughout the park are exceptional. CA-89 winds through it slowly, like a motorcyclist’s dream.</p>
<iframe width="720" height="405" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mtrYRqSX4WA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
<p><img src="https://oremlw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mcIZKx8lmHfTOwikeum7lnQwOyhrrrKhkgfZ8auM3hV8xQGKmTX4NL1uqWLKSbY_UdzPVSqVvDgf2-rzmYTcwo1KC5LGcN9aBFjUxTTx87lQL88Nfb25zmM6FJIPOBguAIqJv6Isbd7wE88vgUflr45ev6ftVUXUiZ90xuspDojWkaEWkZG29JNUScIxnQqv79QKtHI_Wt7nDnWq9lGg_MQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lassen" />
<img src="https://orfv0q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m8aKd32S4gEfnBGv6skRkYlKPk8ueAA4fPHqXIEknKn2OhMgxyKxAqixOw_PlIj8XF1Yygpbr6Ti0ZPW8lBfFj9xXqSjFuRdgJQSoTj5wzwJ_KzT39M6NuKSkEfRMxXpDPfTqXhuHo5f0ZklRq9BZK6e6IJDEOy7VhqTx9uAN6KdrxSvX3icIJitVeKrZ7e86VVlx4upURUDGBd871wdmRw?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lassen" />
<img src="https://orhwrq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mO7BintMdcP0_fD1xuAvIAiLcTgwxEVP2H6kcvLkvaO-iLKXQDOGl-U4nVtJUztLmjKd7oKjgO13oc6dxFUfTWbUe5sUYmQg3qctFw-p4CfvVg25Vr7HF9LcOrGwemR4u9aHlAHt4id6psq5oLNaAwwg8GHfPdz8RUPD_zbJgG7Agm6XmHJCDsyOlWGaVdzfhQ3YzH1QWsG1toVpCcvvN1A?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lassen" />
<img src="https://1sx2la.ch.files.1drv.com/y4miJnQuOSGWIRJRfIN5mKNV2wMhBYBu3q1hXPiJF1COd5CgA2YCGxhvgpexJ1Dq-y9t5ERq7hAUEgq4-Nn9SbMymlM8uNonLK3qajSNe4pIqtBzeGH1SBCCMEHgMjzgVAaploawv6BuP-s9cGI13xvakZ9D4Jq7iNcuqo6KAgQEAzL64NRwV353eqq9jnGS8EuJaN-mNrlmJN1FCqnU7WD4w?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lassen" />
<img src="https://orhbow.ch.files.1drv.com/y4myDMqQpAbvwcK6dZ28btO7VduxH5PuYVSb_TYNWffSOFM1ic6euCGlBjBv-t2gHfODV8acCFu7fi2mgKbP81-NRqZj-T8KgagTovTe4ezYzbxK-5qVdw3NUUVilLj3ZXK0eP-EQepmfkMXUul9J4PtGB3TEUNyrqYiVNomfbi-2n8UdbjVSnrH5Nf64Ai0u-J6GnFQlhaj2cFAK07BuRPZQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lassen" />
<img src="https://1swroq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4miuUBHI8VBMEAf2VpaWFxdUWHvBa9BrpGVVVBF5ofWj-cY8qSMr8Ln2Rg72O0hLKFvHRWdBvsauj7Ado2PNGCWw0DfXJzvf_XugGVA7Ks8WeFzKz3FmTGIPCR4Lo_HpeFmhq3_vcytdCqH7r89iyzFkL1VmfJBu9yQjhhqW0FjGKhiI73qC3iuhO_HLUNslxze9obvpIosn603tb6jU5H9w?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="Lassen" />
<img src="https://orglug.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m6SscWGTRkJLC43L4xkVDReE3EUdtwPhodXmEKX9whM_eV4AN-zEOVfeKd1UAickNZzix9f4O5QdbuMLk_VfR350NovuoAD4L1f66TDASiNFUbYfpeoCWNWUhewJnrGWreKKQPRVH55NVedOTbgNnM2NKTwylh9jgoZ4W__tUQdblV4lM7V6Ev7R6-TIZmwd2A9irWr0-d4_FpeBosxr_iA?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Lassen" /></p>
<p>If you visit Lassen, have a few hours blocked to really take it in. Hike if you can, and keep your camera ready for the vistas that appear around every curve in the road.</p>
<p>About an hour north of the park, we stopped for lunch at a place with hitching posts. As we dropped our kickstands, two other patrons asked us to move a bit so that they could hitch their horses to the posts. That’s not something that happens every day back home!</p>
<p><img src="https://1sxhig.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mFn8QWBObbGM1mFRHee991Y2hTRXEGwLLJGJWDrTIW9mLedFqf4yhOp63VW1NRKmtJrn4q2yNnunXkp6JQkmb5GAnUKjGsZlMv5XtMzSCKpKce2-1Bg4Zg6IS4_cJSxpRrHZT_sf1st3R4E8ZF8FZYt_vgVCsMzQD4ImFqtp6M0XwaP2UQGQV99xwtmFoagTuhz8K4ryTL1otQIVFWpjboQ?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="horses" />
<img src="https://1susfg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m6yJt3FG434FnT0lb01zknWbbngkAVTv4zD51GYBwo1e-eqjLhIstnwJM_0Yug-QtTIa0PyoDd8ANisHrL3pOGygXL48-Eb5-ku0xC49xxKCewE4wwPisFbp3mdOkPMDSyGFEDc6Ce2ydriyq8m3oH4BkLMvNtnXKOx7UnsxP_avCwa04pBZs8KSddeUGqusO0W92GonKrHpmVTUghYeFWQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="horses" /></p>
<p>Our goal for the day was to get north back into Oregon, close enough to Crater Lake that we could beat the traffic the following morning. As we rolled into Fort Klamath, OR for the night, I got a call that one of the kids had gotten sick at home and it’d be great if I could get back early to help out. So we had a quick dinner and got to sleep early so that I could head back to Seattle at sun-up.</p>
<hr />
<h2 id="day-5-back-to-seattle-441-miles">Day 5: Back to Seattle (441 miles)</h2>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1aU3biIORpfsKYaw2ZBEsXehaWxg&hl=en_US" width="720" height="480"></iframe>
<p>Since I needed to get home early, I got up around 04:30 and was on the road at 05:00. Sunrise was at 06:15 and it’s always nice to be on a pleasant stretch of road on a bike when the sun comes up in the mountains.</p>
<p>I wasn’t expecting the freezing temperatures, though. My bike warns at 37°, and I saw the temperature drop as low as 32°. I had to pull over and add layers as the heavy-hauling big rigs roared by. It was a great reminder to always pack gear for the weather that you can’t predict on a long ride.</p>
<p>Because of the heavy smoke from forest fires throughout Oregon (and WA, and MT, and CA, …) there wasn’t a whole lot to see from Crater Lake north, so Greg made the call to just head straight home a few hours after me. It would have been great to have that additional day of riding, but the smoke made it an easy call.</p>
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<p>Our final route is below. Blue was our planned route, but that’s always loose. Recommendations from locals, and interesting-looking roads, will always overrule a planned route. Red is what we actually rode: 1,752 miles over five days.</p>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1WgW7TPevUFpurpKwCdy_p0fhj8c&hl=en_US" width="720" height="480"></iframe>
<p><img src="https://1sx9cw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mQ3w4QUsjfr8luJ34nV4Hri7Et5MNQOKOlSTknDLU3uv5TWnznpWk8lTIIbExXvIJNeUREH_EmgyXzf8X8BW11DVR3T9ZvjFO4Cu0eLRSlceAJDQboRfNnRK0icc4VEipbfojc2L_mlgzwaZZ9p3XifdTyqZCgV2swBcSe6e7x3EDZQ6bKyTSsj0dXR-a43ctR7_iwP9HBO2Urny1nDYTWA?width=660&height=155&cropmode=none#half" alt="chart" />
<img src="https://1sviqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m6tCKCDlhy5Klfp6G5Mdq_7RYGPvjIOawKobIynDMMEDZwuEEGOJ2eJeYa8J5c7Xj0wi-icXHlpKT6pn-kQRY3hrv5OkiwdrF2g4MHl-TCm6B6nKAIpk7qKgtiB-6q9rfMtw0HXx28Z3TYbkUMyBfr01rAUuo2C_76HdcMPQlcA-XjVPEUVweQhDzgmDDHQPre8UL_SHar6VkC21iRR2QlQ?width=660&height=155&cropmode=none#half" alt="chart" />
<em>Elevation:Distance, Speed:Distance (excessive speeds are Greg or Walter)</em></p>
<p>Between Yosemite, Death Valley, and Lassen Volcanos, I got to ride through some entirely new country. Greg had visited some of these places before but they were distant memories. And the blast-furnace of a highway through Death Valley was new to both of us.</p>
<p>We’re fortunate to have some incredible motorcycle routes so close to home. September continues to be one of my favorite seasons in the saddle. And shipping our bikes south to get us closer to these exciting places worked out perfectly when work is encroaching on the plan. As a riding buddy mentioned at the onset of this ride: “Some riding is better than no riding.” Looking back on this trip, yes this was a hell of a lot better than no riding.</p>
<p>We’re already thinking about next September’s route.</p>Jeff HenshawEarly September rides are becoming a tradition. It’s a perfect time of year when it’s still mostly sunny, warm enough for lightweight gear, but there is a little bit of fall in the air as leaves begin to change color. This year, I got in a ride with a couple of buddies that featured some of the best riding that the Sierra Nevada Mountains and surrounding country have to offer.September Loop in the Pacific Northwest2016-09-24T00:00:00-07:002016-09-24T00:00:00-07:00https://jeff.henshaw.org/septloop<p><img src="https://1svprg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mUmE_igLuHUCWl0TdejUC_mp8DvOUTtmK-8o5jBZO9UBukdWdCYz-arsagOEOHPhbGyQ4ERedQjGU4zHDn12cVgOyvHGKY8_vkwywNbGfRMmong1zjJvtyorz5H0wmy9Rm88nIxu5X398LRH1sPHEz9QDvdt4jLLTPM7XXeKuzjdz1WGZord9ql9f2hvvjEVVytUXkwI02WcFwJUypX6FVQ?width=1024&height=682&cropmode=none#whole" alt="Sawtooth" /></p>
<p>The first weeks of September are my favorite riding time of the year. The Pacific Northwest sun is usually still shining, but the temperatures are chilly in the mornings and evenings. Leaves have just started to turn colors but are still in the trees. Motorcycling is comfortable as you get a variety of temperatures and great smells through the countryside.</p>
<p>When my buddy Greg suggested a 6-day weekend ride, it didn’t take much convincing for me to agree. There was no route planned, just some time away from work, riding through the upper northwest corner of the U.S..</p>
<p>Our route wound up being just over 1,600 miles through Washington, Idaho, and Oregon. Thanks to the Cascades, Rockies, and Sawtooth Mountains, we got plenty of elevation change.</p>
<iframe src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1m1o17cLoF_3MBzk8eUer6bojYl0&hl=en_US" width="720" height="480"></iframe>
<p><img src="https://cjqdzw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mi6cUELjt0SJ8oSL7FfyyPXSUSynmTe-_SVMjqLsrDc5WXRuVnChdlm7hwmpYiyKBNJ42NSPyjx2BiPt4ICEqD1kRj-I-rEg46oar1QMTUo97aCpYSZMDE35dyXw-KsmzOJMPgpJsCiFBLHBux7xZWUsA-jKmIc3MSg8FQs-0h8cgNwXso1O-4tTYXmIBvu7SQ14VWcybLlwI2AtrvS-T8w?width=1024&height=327&cropmode=none#whole" alt="redacted" />
<em>Our route and ride telemetry</em></p>
<p>Greg and I set out on September 15th in hopes of extended summer sunshine and no fall rains. Our first leg took us across Washington toward Idaho. One of the nicer stops on this route was at Lyons Ferry State Park. In the middle of the week (Thursday), there was nobody else there except a Washington State Parks attendant.</p>
<p><img src="https://cjpulq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mdbLYxEMup3FsoAS9tPqba6Wo4n16uSxLg1gcyEHA4LuY8QqU9Y6CNoTTEcsg2Ji88wBprT5FPYwIycCKw9la8Eave-gCgp97l2aZi3NIFdMO9tQiLP0RwyAfiN_h_8XXwTa1lOvYF6BQJmkR1lZWNdupPOdddBcT4HDHczsWJjEgFv7_HdBG--AB1XCVy_XD7CUpsoBUuXMpQpSskofI9A?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="LyonsFerry" />
<img src="https://cjo4ra.ch.files.1drv.com/y4menV2rlDs-1daGaJ35SNL0NNVyOGZPkyA5LsAtixxlF4YIEndLCvSylWu1mqhFkIZPBjHrcG0Jn3zc9ITWl54HF7DxpCwsIhyb64Gg9sOeQiO3ZJvRA42XTQHATgP-lvqScOgoND-4gKhktH2uyA-47IGiQ01XuMI1hMaFzEGUjZEf5hTgQ_ekVoSdMXpWMeuHSdeifvf1powhio1ZJ-HCA?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="LyonsFerry" />
<img src="https://cjrtua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mWUfkjnQKdI0SYarYV9aVo7mXaft-zGrA5Gp48J9jMsesvBSiNXRBw48CvDNY1EE5GWFt9XG-EnnQTTtqd9glJXQcyEwl4fZWhG6PBDwj3cL2EAf2nQWbtK8HmtGoPEp5ZoNIs3WW5l_y9VL3O7VS_uAo6w01NedZae5A_UmxrEx6jZq2YvBxWm6kE8OSkMhkQopaHgkwYScctxOjdTz6wA?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#third" alt="LyonsFerry" /></p>
<p>We rode to Lewiston, Idaho and learned that a big U of I game left no open hotel rooms. Thinking we might reach Yellowstone, we continued east with plans to stay in the small town of Orofino, where <a href="http://orofinolumberjackdays.org/">“Lumberjack Days”</a> was being celebrated. We got two of the last rooms in town at the White Pine Motel. We’ll just say at the White Pine was not the highlight of our trip.</p>
<p><img src="https://cjqkfg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mx5JDWzF-E2IJ2e4r17iSmOCn1NLVT0Saw_a1CWfUitsc08jSDvxvY5vaU6gut4Jz7DiPiTeMlYhXBxkEMAeJo9PXUZAi-VFX-Bdbq1xOEBj63sti7rKP2fUoAOsXO5TWkSe8NvBiqzEtsJFpWVCbn85-5b1jvSCruCGxlDz66qyUJwPF8cYkMI7WHMdLnOBSgVRSSKFv17I0drUEblI0kA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none#third" alt="WhitePine" />
<img src="https://cjojog.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m5mxkbJpOV3-xRjz1mtP9eKooV08j7UYYBTcLGt9sIkB2Rr_dUBpeL8_BlefYi7yfdsBbyqDWjHLH4MWJG-9Cy2zZkEkyjhxaEuVkx4SmhJydDWDoj3HXbmQzyb_gLCG6T0rsWwSXEHG1e4Ff6lwpyD-38_Q1SnsDwwrEJq1BzoWV4jtFHInhgbCpy--NOWPzKgvbZbe4hIFlLAJVbeozQA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="WhitePine" /></p>
<p>Though our plan was to continue east toward Lolo Pass, a GPS programming mishap took us northwest. It turned out to be an excellent mistake, though, because the road we took climbing up out of Orofino was one of the best roads of the entire ride. We were treated to incredible views of the Clearwater and Potlatch Rivers, plus beautiful rolling farmlands up on the plateaus.</p>
<p><img src="https://cjp1da.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mf2hUTWxGy_uQWfCrK_O8eiZs1V4AqJAy5B66FKiNzD3eBoMI-WEHN0LdVNWqf10s3JuakIuQVLcGd3eZVkTQuqfoPmuiynojO2xFq0iRKjw4tgEuy67XLNWqtoZR5wUFPsDBccvjgptiXcnBmheU6BYNo7GR_Vl-nJD9Xv2bdiMORlVi8A6A6wLC7UD9PKU6tiHRl3DxBWzTe5fs5GSdSA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Potlatch" />
<img src="https://cjoqiw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mffBEYy2y-tirO-3aF-Q2qdM7NSN-IqmiLxA_6NcvCr0_HJyXgjf_-geMEhNBW1JOneFrK9Ozoz7bJAu-MLez0VQvjbdEcs2ACZPaMTJE7_X-cxbF92BmCs-7-3qJYKZ9FKJVSqvR3dPgPTMzKE95QXqqnwpAqV9Em8arc_LF5z2htf4Mxo8DgR-QuagEvCv4z8FGDcan6TKQ9zOS-dFTkg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Potlatch" />
<img src="https://cjraqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mKC1ni4aGK0fn0o0CRg5PimNj7swabN042FZoeTSlZH0UuVQjTajVMF_P_gYDI-LeKoKxEIXXUt9U8Dx248cqXkL-IEKHCrzoYSZX_rJJKyl0UTRcKftkksSx3VSdomr7jSiqncWjsTX30fifZ0eJ0SdYWLZkLtTOxWt9hEkyRcJJWzd7_NGU7FONEzcsrrnby3Kizp9r9uaMP1iTRafgBg?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="Potlatch" />
<img src="https://cw9fcg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mW8bUo-qvReeTUVfCYp8bl99H6h9bEweKSh6KhL-YsNitNOEA1VvNOE5dA-k5QJelUpzUxjD9-RrtIHCY578vcIi-OKONAinv8qHJFav_fGcpvgs12WCXhcxO-C6DbLWM529T2Pf0lxB8Hkof0G4sOK1hJoDk2e9YZha5DgEnJmoDKWYNdQupMIu7iHd0j-63psVpnAVHSpObTe-z7bimiQ?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="Potlatch" />
<img src="https://cjoq6q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mv4yKMi5Ywzx_K5guZrTzO9k7aPrXo9mle9872WrKXycpYCYQhq-0jdmyqa5Qy9GfXgWFEOw1V11lNPH60nuw3zgxPXevwnDtWVY4Rme175U40x14QDHEsfD3ECsjch83-YBpuiWSvjK585rAO4V5D1JCg7U1Y5hGdiCGczjUskJAR7eeRp2fTWMvKTAcCzXZlE_3qNdNHThfCTIo0yvUWA?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="Potlatch" />
<img src="https://cwqg5g.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mD58_sN7kmxfQbho5kDQZAZ6LuQic3sEFEo3qBxQI7rlgcNtGNySfvlsP_uOYs2Ng_xdaqHmPByGquHFNbZpPxn6pVPbmuxr07CI16DUpVVzhTP4K8x3jjK6FFRpXJD8Nc2hnKcI4HPZIHagd2ZuhWLHMtM_3nb-Wb8LwLuuP1ga6M9xLxMci9LrRODuHqTiUwrHEioOs7YTsf0Pz53ckBg?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="Potlatch" /></p>
<p>We continued south through the afternoon across the Nez Perce reservation, the Bitterroot Wilderness, and into the Payette National forest. Around 17:00, we rolled into McCall, Idaho for the night, a resort town with great restaurants, breweries, and a beautiful lake.</p>
<p><img src="https://cw8w0a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mM-qWcJknaBSeJf-PUcw7Ia85MwtYWkKLUXVp0-fr_VPCSi6Qg66dtk2_UDsclLyN-FCiwe7kBzIzoukdThr89TPygwEICaRSUd8z_0jvO0xCgs36s4ZW9_1Qsrvne5ZqIsdxTvc48Av7wmPv7WSlwGakHvBfcjrMrWq0tzB2Bh7EAoCkZnGxYi46HlvO69g2SsGZL2seWn_1EiEfVklaMQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="McCall" />
<img src="https://cw97ww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m6nqVHkV-kFSoriarXGriQPpSu-CKgx9kKN023SM9JIZ9HRBfl07gd2HGDi6P_oz1R86NIidPjkBgbcyJsGIJMQmR9ZJ4eYzDF29_ejDmlYbg0XkStAWmqA3JtOLETGiGp8LGhbGPgAsSj4gp4d8OIzrfXTlab-GzsXE5NTN3LJHBYEsc547cN4mxSkbnHDrlSfj8_u7QRpRsN3FvmYad2g?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="McCall" /></p>
<p>We shared an outdoor dinner table with a local couple and their enormous, but very sweet labradoodle. As often happens, the locals knew all of the best routes for bikers. Over a second bottle of wine, we formed our plan for the coming day: South into the Sawtooth National Forest, over the Sawtooth Mountains, and eventually into Sun Valley.</p>
<p>Nearly every mile of this route was scenic. Most of it was along rivers or through mountain passes — a motorcyclist’s dream. Severe wildfires had left some of the hills scorched; we had lunch near a fire control encampment. The continuous elevation changes made for an exciting ride.</p>
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<p>Sun Valley was true to it’s name. Under blue skies on a reasonably warm morning, we began tracking east. Ninety-eight miles on Interstate 84 got us quickly into Oregon. The 80 m.p.h. speed limit in Idaho is nice for that.</p>
<p>Not many photos from this day, because we only stopped a few times for gas and coffee. But the terrain was beautiful as we went from Idaho into Eastern Oregon.</p>
<p><img src="https://pooo0a.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mBoE5d3UDuzpVi_VytC3cOp7dwMITWNQK8QoYP5jci9niu6RyBgn0hYh56Us9kNzuUhn_YCy_BDQs97TkjLjWFizfSEmILf1xCGvEEqy2PwkrKdma9awpi6jeVNFsRCR5zlAhjwcchgc_8lqv3tJoaU-XLhiBf5oT4pJGcSEKySH_erIIxEZa4yxBiek0LyL3Gc0_wfRJu8fJCVM5dA0jZA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oregon" />
<img src="https://popeuq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mbYly_wYh3U5kx-rL8Dgt2TdflfvvVao15kLfOYyT2s_cS0RyqQqdI3_RAK_C11NZDh7KQ8aiJfMYPgcdD_4Vsijmj4Cnu_nxMCa4IL3q1yYo6HVeS5sUPnXIO_JIHyi3IjTupbzVKuVuCoC1ukTjtP5MR-WdMG70R-Xv3AQlvAtvrikHBOWutI7JitAz7x4B8hYxqigUdEKpM64U6r3UIA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oregon" />
<img src="https://popzww.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m3WzBbCfcDx-ENoBNSCLrvFkmDEJysTHQisypW_B_XBN-4VehfzYDvSWn42hcVxntvpUSV4vZcT9xAY6AAUzFY-yHgezWRkLzlPIxhkC_vEl7DU51uzmbNUuCVE2nWNnw271rg5COvRpqOdOZMVSAhLL7c-PL_Ac5dowtwI2t1_mICb2r-BTNs7u9s3lNohMh-4Oi603PMhxYO-l_r6Va-w?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oregon" />
<img src="https://ponflg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mUCS56IdfxTs5s6DAC0pmj3H_p3fCDK6Aaql6qxrfIkiA9rqYBSwp5KxA7h2dN2z4Qf61ufiiP0AKHf7TIynMtazMQQWkK9KtmxRPai6PjLCQu1omUkyvIPlwWmdM-Iptx0y9B5XqfTjGSlgO0ExZzwnOqXs5md8_lZ1f1OYChzL4Uw9S_N20mnqEnHsOdr5n73Ja5P8f7jNBOASpgSrH6Q?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oregon" /></p>
<p>It was after the coffee stop at Flick’s & Java — which was closed so we drank gas station espresso at their tables — that I nearly hit disaster. My fuel range seemed fine rolling out of that small town of Vale, Oregon. But I didn’t realize that a combination of desert, repeated mountain passes, and a strong headwind would bleed off 3/4 of a tank (about 180 miles of range) much faster than usual. At one point, I checked the remaining distance to our target town of Burns and it was about 100 miles, and I had only 110 miles of range. That should have been OK, but…</p>
<p>Headwinds and climbing dragged my range down much faster than I was traversing miles. At 45 miles, they were even (45 miles to go, 45 miles of range). By 38 miles, I had only 33 miles of range. During this time the bike began warning me about fuel.</p>
<p>When my particular model of motorcycle senses a limited fuel range, it displays warnings on my GPS screen, with one-touch assistance to route me to the nearest gas station. It’s a super cool feature; a light comes on, I tap an icon, and instantly I see the nearest petrol stations with one-touch routes to them. Except in this case, the nearest station was about ten miles beyond my actual range.</p>
<p>There’s nothing one can do in this situation except ride on, and hope for downhill stretches. I was riding with a buddy (who has about 75 more miles of range than me) so I could always send him ahead to bring fuel back, or ride with him to a station. It’s still unnerving, though.</p>
<p>As my range hit 12 miles remaining and we summited yet another pass, the downhill stretch brought a sight for sore eyes and low tanks: a single gas pump in front of a museum / souvenir shop that apparently wasn’t in the GPS’s database. We rolled up and not only filled the tanks, but got some beautiful Native-American crafted gifts for our families. <a href="http://www.visiteasternoregon.com/entry/oards-indian-art-museum/">Oards Indian Art Museum,</a> run by locals, was great.</p>
<p><img src="https://qfjjoa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mMS6gnE68tqY5aCUgbeODCaxvvUICuiR8t-yBNRzZdk-Cj10buNgky3lFH7OLju7gZR1KbUsZyYls9B0598va4v-gcL3t0vDDDL6ANF5w2metQbIPwpsWCFqXZeCLeZU7gvJHNsJac8V62361WaOrHGAOy5Afnp8X1Thh8FRZ0BC5qwYSyG_aNFKIQ7uHjoeyn0tTWJLC8bfYTxSbuWRDZQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oards" />
<img src="https://qfhkfq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mOs_mN1XMXIvOBZFPKapnUTuc3lV0Wua7llDP1co1-NorYbd4Le_-ySxV13jBJg103NLQB-8IIiqlwyjuhveOjOqqeuQBIEm3QMwWQVmLo3j3-1EN-xNvoOroEbfRX7EPlyEDbUDXBLzcvrA0SmtbnPOr07BGKAHBooHNA8s4UDnjjZLdqzhxdOrJdTmJ3bz7gCkpikuiGQuhGRKLH9YA8g?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oards" />
<img src="https://qfiaqg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m-sQj_Bm6zTqVE_XwPSkQajgkQiH6sovomr8GPOufMTSHV8uVQucGOfJAMSrET555Om_fw1PEZu0lZyRWBoAjj8ULj82uuhD6jL9Lq9j2nOScR_GmrnFhegWzLtoYL4Zo8BSRjWuBzUBIlb8wCoNvSUu5DqVX47V8uEd_j74qGtWAZ8W4CkzgzEDqN0OwyCwVbY05sOrMLD8BVs8TE5xsZg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oards" />
<img src="https://qfgula.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mx_4vMTLfQJfb8KD0KmOuukrbIB3hQb5ScZxI1DWzWd-_WGPqp3XP2Y8l6lPwB1GAKqpIm_UraHijMhH6zWaO9TQGBWzCoJJn2Q8arVGkOz3wMrNvXrTRiZyWultd3_kTtx0jTugtcPT711hF8sXPfIIoH5HMZb9lyhviyvu5E4ngbwAmnJwHmPzY9E3BWZHx7r4i6Im0D2CbdzgvX8pMcQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Oards" /></p>
<p>Burns, Oregon is home to the <a href="http://www.horseshoeinn.net/">Horseshoe Inn,</a> which gets the nod as the coolest place we stated. Their $59 rooms are clean, include a kiss from the resident German Shepherd when you check in, rooms have an accompanying horse corral, and the inn is actually <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/30836+US-20,+Burns,+OR+97720/@43.6034374,-119.039045,264m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x54b0a81fd5b6b85d:0x709575a7ada0d50b!8m2!3d43.6037264!4d-119.038984">shaped like a horseshoe!</a></p>
<p><img src="https://qfhrxa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mlWw43IpMYIfZhbcGT51FqlWwVkq4Mnw_tzZVnlft0sG-yMbh8pgRLdKtVdGqyJNfaOwDVqp5Is00yasg9BFhe_cOowB3bag1-7CHzhI7JsbOHBXJ0OvfiGegagKhucEV8kTIkVdZAu-2rOeHwAosXl2EE8f_YERbugCcY-uQW9FAeBNMocrgnQQi47voj3ubCPQdOcoVQVB5UtDPo3-qqg?width=660&height=422&cropmode=none#half" alt="Horseshoe" />
<img src="https://qfg1cw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mVmwXNQmcNyMVQFVlquAWw0yTJsHB3BZXz-yHHZPGr2bOselzVuR_b_6DfEjDdNhx1leM_ETGqScs9VyubSeKTxqeRirSugHtF52SpLYb3pLvV0ukhDM10uDTxFmgZIYrCbLBI0glitl2NgEF8Jd570vZLGCsD_Ce1tb-xRp0ZQE--u9GZgmcwAorm6pcUOiJHhDhLaPKqbJ-yfdf8IwKag?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="Horseshoe" /></p>
<p>Day five took us north into the Malheur National Forest, where we unexpectedly stumbled upon the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/joda/index.htm">John Day Fossil Beds National Monument,</a> tucked into the Painted Hills. What an amazing find! We probably could have spent an entire day here, hiking and exploring their museum. They have active fossil recovery labs on site.</p>
<p><img src="https://3gw7wg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mFkQx5knDu5M2fHZeKCN2Dmr10d0MePAia5Cbrd7lFhim-Oql4cbwgX1r2FMvb9b1zkQ_DiLBTJ-hKkndTHhMIZT8UJrFbl3mOyKXFcmxbEozBL_ptO-XweN-5Omy-tOTusJsZEW9_YLsbSNc9_9eIvqLMzD1JU_-SvytEXv2iIwJRvWK48tk03AX7rcQGIwpdY8smnDLapYidk4X3_8DnQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="JohnDay" />
<img src="https://3gxxqw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4meYAlfcuoR1sWL0xbcU0zgFNTtg01XN-c1XP98nGolvjwFlyRbCsXgTJWEsyRsYKF5DPadFoCDwANlOXcYZ2-Guk7mfGVFxrynjN4bROP49dbaryShC0XCEv4oUjOTbbKdzG1TBEC7EdvDVJ7m9jsVmXmX6N0E9QvGI8TP9vcFwxLLR8NnqsK5sICeNKHG9Ml-lWT1W64IkW5VbQ3-qdxtg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none#half" alt="JohnDay" />
<img src="https://3gwmua.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mSoGOprSgdhyEiTsbhiLt70h8LWiQu1VJZKo9OsSvOTkwVyThCxmM717Jiw4jKgARdifj2LolKWYgKcjDY9rfZADSNFqKN2rL24muGVD7GAXaPO676rzKER21C733NyoQTSw8kp5xBAHObsXVxPIcTCkKJZDLCDEdMLquyBz4Yfl95eQuvNaGpL7tGebo8TQ8Oi24EsWaNaRXHrn0Qxtzfg?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="JohnDay" />
<img src="https://qfgg0q.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mgKbspb0Xf6hIUIg6j1JgBUsh_qGqeZm57IHvoMmWSlRgZER8bmhEra45b53qCOp2Gy2DkpUcVfVtnYvDUdl_cVpxxl_gSPJRxBfxSitYCFYh_8IZEPikWPv7uyhlzMc9-vLsa_sQgdUC0giriLR5fTselNbIAJiD-ZJu--ziTV8zArKJPqC4LdPCEBtzn9aklQTQPeFIpvmkctS1neNTrA?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none#half" alt="JohnDay" />
<img src="https://3gzwzg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mzhat1GoWHHiZGfGpBPyIEFdHyt_MgCeeL5hlT4TaMG8X5R43Ioy48aF3bjQwI_EhGoL4kF8h_6mjpcOzdI7QAy_LbzI3WVfl02T8IHSSJaw0WwKuTqOr5zdPnzOGjB3drOGVDx7vkjLyluZVkejOT3A_BV48S3fokRAdDD9x76Aq8fTbVfrlP3XmgDNvTyqr8Ybvx4gHvz7J4kg_gsGIZA?width=1024&height=682&cropmode=none#whole" alt="JohnDay" /></p>
<p>This national park facility also happens to be right in the middle of the path of totality of next year’s total solar eclipse. Hundreds of thousands of people are expected in eastern Oregon for the event. Hotels have been sold out for years. But thanks for some friendly locals, I rented a spot to watch from.</p>
<p>We saw a herd of bighorn sheep as we continued north. They’re a bit hard to see, but they’re nearly centered in the photo. We almost rode into them, as the heard was on the road when we came by. When we circled back to get a photo, they had already retreated to the ridge.</p>
<p><img src="https://3gynla.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mlEO0Y8ok9Z1By_ZpklTZHuz-EFs0PQVLnqhGaVbybQUnBlKCnPqXf9AO30EA6zKAO-UwM6pyUoAUS5KT7gekDAs0HTSxvtITFT3J3qGDEC2blFy4_Kspp50ZBQyLtdgKC-8L4wTdot9CqgYg5cbgl-_Cy9crcXoMCu9pc56DXOov_XTVhDfUZXndUi9CiD68Ae_m3osKZR_VvJkkaR-vYA?width=1024&height=682&cropmode=none#whole" alt="goats" /></p>
<p>Our final night was spent in Goldendale, Washinton as we planned for a quick ride home. Even a quick ride through central WA includes a run up Yakima Canyon Road, though.</p>
<p>We rang in at about 1,620 miles over the six days. Never did see any rain aside from a few drops in the Sawtooths. It added up to a perfect September ride that also served as a great reminder that the Pacific Northwest is amazing this time of year.</p>
<p>Those 1,620 miles brought us a lot of fun, and a lot of bugs. Here’s the before and after shots in Ellensburg, WA, where we wrapped up the ride:</p>
<p><img src="https://3gzdfq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mtz1BUhqVM2RnY-Ym2frkFG4fEnYgKhrc4DiTfxzHEyVpndZ2JRt8zV4mDCI2TeucYcO-HemENciRgWKPoZ3CraQKX75AiXPDkIjIVCuASW3FLlgh-SfSaH_DJOfRy00oZDKsRNdZ4jPDBYH4wo4WfWCCBAoUEYs_tDuUQFN79SI8TBjh7WsaxJBpYubPsMU6Xk4AGMC0lPPvHokoO4gNTg?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Ellensburg" />
<img src="https://3gxcoq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mW4NG1_rfVfEM7oFQDfifyqpRHCMz6MjvjsBUTqtNT04C4zblGGPI5wY8OPYiW76yWGHLeBaILaZxlYD5X88Ju--EHtWGE8exUaP8clMQq7v5QJcvNzhu5dumSmcmXpNwhFhw0r7EIokgwpVTZW2tu2hqwWqiqOLkxWViGE2iqtTS428hZhS8exXWuW062Lrq0MiM9XGdMyCICfc0nKcofQ?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none#half" alt="Ellensburg" /></p>Jeff Henshaw